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I stacked a quick test image. Basically a bunch of previous images of M42 which were test images captured live and stacked live with SharpCap. But I also saved the images during the live stack. Then upgraded to SharpCap Pro to run SharpCap 3.2 as if I was in the field. I just pointed to the folder of images and had the camera folder act as a live camera. To do this (at least with PNG files or RAW captures) you need to select the proper Bayer Mask for your camera in the playback panel. There are some errors in my narration and this is only quick processing to show you how I often try to get intermediate images, not perfect images using affordable programs on my laptop. There are also a few bugs, at least on my version or install of Sharp Cap Pro 3.2 when doing a stack from a folder and sometimes I mention them but sometimes I forget to mention them. The main bugs in stacking from folders is SharpCap Pro will not know the total exposure and doesn't seem to update the total pixel depth correctly. The actual pixel depth can be in the millions of pixels with long stacks of exposures. For the RASA, the 11 inch VERSION and a light pollution filter in the city a 5 to 10 minute of stacked exposures will provide millions of levels of bit depth meaning 24 or more levels of bit depth and this may surpass the amount of data that can be stored in one TIFF file. What SharpCap does is put the data into two or three or however many TIFF images it needs to use to store all the data and wrap them inside a FIT wrapper. For affordable programs. Something like an $80 Nebulosity program is ideal in looking at and doing quick processing of the FIT image that SharpCap can quickly save as a large stack. Here's what I show. 1. Sharp Cap stacking images from a folder. 2. How I use cheap tools to quickly process an image. Not as good as photoshop and using multiple tools makes it less flexible to back out or make a change in an earlier step. And photoshop is way more powerful. But as I don't have photoshop for the PC and I'm often to lazy to take the image to my Macintosh laptop I often use this technique for a quick image with cheap tools. So I use Nebulosity first I use two clicks of two features to get Nebulosity to show what the live stack is providing those are DDP digital dynamic processing, and then Adjust Color Background offset and save them and then adjust the finished image with the cheap tools shown below or photoshop if I'm more serious. 3. I show a little bit of the process using a cheap tool Astra Image which works okay but is nowhere as good as photoshop. 4. I create two images from the saved and processed stack. One brighter and one darker for HDR processing. 5. I take the two brighter and darker images and do a layer in Photomatix HDR which is not designed for astronomy but has a lot of interesting features. I toy with HDR settings and get an image that looks half decent but may have a little more noise and grain than I'd ideally want. That grain may contain details, which I want to show but the noise I want to get rid of. 6. I use NEAT IMAGE noise reduction (stand alone, but they have a photoshop plug-in) to reduce the noise and I have a basic image.