Table Saw Straightedge Jointer! скачать в хорошем качестве

Table Saw Straightedge Jointer!

Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop If you need to put a straight edge on a piece of wood, but don’t have a jointer - this method is for you! Crafts and tradespeople have traditionally counted on either jointer planes or a powered jointer to put a true edge on crooked stock. Many shops are short on space, or there are budget constraints to prevent the addition of this tooling in the workshop. What do you do when you need a straight edge then? In this episode, DirtFarmer Jay demonstrates a great method, using a ProClamp® straight edge guide. There are various brands of this product, and we found the ProClamp® to be a perfect combo of price, quality, features, and availability. We got ours from PeachTree WoodWorking Supply (https://www.ptreeusa.com/). It came well-packed, arrived quickly, and was in good condition. While we’d like to take credit for this idea, that wouldn’t be honest. DirtFarmer Jay saw the tip in the January 2020 issue of WoodSmith® magazine, where a tipster, C.R. Davis, from Arkansas provided the idea. The method C.R. provided really works well! The straight clamp is modified slightly by cutting off one side of the “slider” handle (called a “bowtie” by the ProClamp® folks). This is an easy change, using only a hacksaw. If you want to restore the tool to its original condition later, a replacement “bowtie” is $5 plus $2 shipping. No brainer. To cut a straight edge, the clamp is positioned on top of the piece of the wood, with an edge of the clamp hanging over the edge of the piece of wood. With one side of the “bowtie” cut away, the straight edge can sit against the table saw fence. The fence is then positioned so that the opposite edge (the one that does not have the straight edge clamped to it) is run through the saw blade, producing a true edge. The clamp is then removed, the stock rolled over, and the fence adjusted so that a straight edge is cut that is parallel to the first one. Cool, huh? In the spirit of full disclosure, this approach does not work well for twisted or significantly cupped stock. Nor can you use this way for stock longer than the clamp’s capacity. Lastly, this is good only for “squaring up” only one edge and is good for stock that is otherwise flat or can be treated with a thickness planer or sander. The MAJOR advantage of having a jointer is that it allows you to flatten the face of the lumber, then ride that face against the jointer fence while an adjacent edge is straightened. This gives the stock a flat face and straight edge that are perpendicular to each other. The stock can then be run through a thickness planer to flatten that other face. Finally, the piece is run through the table saw to cut another true edge parallel to the one produced on the jointer. While the method we featured only trues up one edge on the stock that is already essentially flat, there is one BIG advantage to this approach (besides space and cash savings!) over most shop level jointers: NO TEAR OUT. When grain direction changes in a piece of wood and that wood encounters jointer blades going “against the grain”, there are going to be chip outs, which is called “tear out.” With a sawblade cutting off the edge, grain direction makes no difference, as the wood fibers are cleanly severed as the blade passes through the wood. Something to keep in mind! With the clamp guide retrofit method we’ve used, you can throw ingenuity at the problem, using tooling that you already have, or is inexpensive to acquire, and you can JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram:   / dirtfarmerj   Facebook:   / dirtfarmerjay   You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon:   / dirtfarmerjay