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Please remember to click like when you watch this. @DaveWhellersVintage. And before you ask No I don't get paid for doing these Videos in any way. I make them to help dispel all the myths' about them out there and keep these beautiful old vintage bikes on the road now and on into the future with the younger generation. Here's a short video I made on how to check if you charging system is working correctly. This test applies to Lithium Iron Phosphate battery's, but could be simply adapted to be done on the standard Lead acid or Gel batteries with lower voltages. To do the test your self you need a multi meter and a clip on ampro or amp meter. Both meters are available from DIY stores. Multimeters are pretty cheap but the clip on ampros or amp meters are more expensive, but well worth the expenditure in my opinion. I must impress that voltages can kill if you do not know what you are doing. If in doubt DONT. Its worth remembering that the bike with headlights on will charge the battery from about 2000rpm with the lights ON. With lights off it starts to charge at around 1500rpm. When sitting at the lights on idle at 1000rpm with the standard incandesant bulb indicators ON, you are pulling over 4amps from your battery so I recommend to not leave them on for too long or you will flatten you battery. This applies to the Standard battery's as well as LIP batteries. This Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery ( has 210 CCA or Cold Cranking Amps ) or LIP, is fitted with a Battery Management System or BMS and have now used this on my T140v for over two years with no problems at all. I STRONGLY recommend if you choose to go the Lithium route, to ensure your battery is an LIP and has the BMS included in your battery, as some of the cheaper ones do not.