Mazda RX-7 FC3S/FC3C Stereo Installation Part 3 - READ DESCRIPTION! скачать в хорошем качестве

Mazda RX-7 FC3S/FC3C Stereo Installation Part 3 - READ DESCRIPTION!

Please read the entire description as there is valuable information in here that I forgot to mention or didn't know during the recording of this video. Wiring Harness (VERY IMPORTANT): Some aftermarket stereos have a dimmer wire that will cause the backlighting to dim when the car's headlights are turned on (like a stock stereo would). Mine did have this and it seemed to work (it is the orange wire btw), but it is completely optional. When I first wired the stereo in, I did have the dimmer wire connected. However, I also had a wire running directly from the accessory output directly to the antenna without the relay or the switch installed. I had it there specifically so I could install the relay and switch (mention below in the power antenna section) but I forgot to cut it... This led to a short in my interior lighting circuit and killed my battery for 3 days before I figured out the problem. However, thinking I had damaged the dimmer switch/circuit (turns on when headlights do in order to dim the interior lighting), I cut the wire going to the antenna AS WELL AS the dimmer wire going to the stereo. So, what I'm saying is, that I do not know 100% which wire (or both) were shorting the battery. So, if you do connect the dimmer wire to your aftermarket stereo, and you start to have problems with finding your battery dead, just disconnect it. I did have mine connected at first and it did cause the stereo to dim with the other interior lights, but for fear of damaging my car, I disconnected it. EDIT: You should be safe connecting the orange dimmer wire given your head unit has a dimmer input. I am sure now that my problem was the uncut antenna wire. Installation Mount: As I said in the video, the kit requires extensive modification in order to fit. The brackets that were attached to the frame that needed to be removed were the easiest to modify. I just took some wire cutters and snipped them off. This is also how I cut the no. 9 brackets to work. Originally the opening in the kit was way to small. I used a razor blade to score the backside of the plastic surrounding the opening that I needed to cut off. Then I simply used the razor blade to simply slice through the plastic. While this process is pretty easy, it is very time consuming as you can only slide the razor blade one way each time rather than a sawing (back and forth) motion. Once the plastic was cut so that the opening was large enough, I used a file to smooth out any rough edges. Stereo Head Unit: I did have to modify the plastic bezel surrounding the screen for the trim to fit back over the new stereo. The bezel itself made the stereo slightly too wide to fit. I spent probably an hour filing away both sides of the bezel to about 1/3 of their original width. It does now fit, but it is still quite tight. You can only tell it was modified when the center console trim is removed. I can make a video showing this if someone wants to see what it looks like or how I did this. Power Antenna: For installing a relay to get the power antenna to work, please use the 2nd generation RX-7 FAQ page on the rx7club forums. It's a long post but the information is near the top. The FC's power antenna goes up when it receives a negative/ground signal to it. Every aftermarket stereo has an accessory and/or antenna activation wire. One problem is, is that every aftermarket stereo outputs a positive voltage through these wires to activate the antenna/amp/whatever it's connected to. The info in the FAQ will show you how to wire in a relay to make the output negative when the stereo is turned on in order to activate the antenna properly. The stock amplifier(s) are activated with a positive voltage which is a good thing. Unless your stereo has a separate wire for the antenna (I don't think mine did), you will have to splice a second output wire into your stereo's accessory wire so one goes to the antenna (see part 1 at 5:00) and the other goes to the amplifier(s). The other problem with using the accessory wire to operate the antenna is that when it's fully wired up (with the relay installed), the antenna will go up whenever the stereo is on, not just when the radio is being used. Because I rarely listen to the radio (usually ipod) and I don't like the look of the antenna up, this didn't suit my needs. To solve this problem, I spliced an on/off toggle switch (which I placed under the steering column) into the wire going to the antenna so that the antenna will only go up when 2 things are true: the stereo is turned on, and I flip the toggle switch on. If either the switch or the stereo is turned off, the antenna will stay down. I can show where I mounted this switch if someone wants me to. In the rare occasion I want to listen to the radio, I just have to flip the switch, and the antenna will go up. Feel free to ask any questions and I will try to answer them to the best of my ability.