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The walk from Dufton to Alston is described as the hardest day of the Pennine Way, a distance of 20 miles, with 3,280 feet of elevation. We had read about the route which goes over Great Dun Fell (2,782feet) and Cross Fell (2,930feet). When the weather is good the views can be fabulous, but they also hold the English records for bad weather, and the infamous Helm Wind. This wind only blows from the north east, forming a cap of clouds on the fells. So, we were well prepared with food and drink and up early. We left Dufton at 7.30am, picking up the Pennine Way sign by Dufton Farm house built in1779, round the corner from a house built in 1648, amazingly old. There is a sign for Garrigill 15 miles. We headed up the track for 200m, then turned left at a sign, walking along a lovely paved path by a stream. Ten minutes later we turned right up Hurning Lane, went through a gate, continuing along a muddy track, then crossing a stream (8.05am). In clear weather the path ahead can be seen, at 8.30am we went over a big bridge, then turned right up a steep slope towards Knock Fell. We had great views back over the Lake District, with cloud on the tops and rain in places. There is a hush to the right, then a disused dam to the left. A hush is a channel created when the miners built a small dam, then released a torrent of water to scour the hillside and reveal precious stones beneath-there are several in the area. At 9.45am we reached the top of Knock Fell (2,604 feet) with a big marker post on the top. We were happy with our progress, having now completed most of the day’s elevation. It was misty, and a cold wind had picked up. Following the path, some old large mill stones had been placed across the bog, we always wonder how they seem to float on the top of the bog. However, quite a few of them were under a few inches of water, so we had to go on diversions, being careful not to sink into the bog ourselves. The path in parts is very faint here. Our path briefly joined the service road (10.15am) to the antennae and radome on top of Great Dun Fell, before branching right. Alternatively, the road could be taken to the top. We arrived at the top of Great Dun Fell (2,780feet),10 minutes later. The antennae and radome used in air traffic control and recording the weather, suddenly loomed large in the mist. It was amazing that they did not come into view sooner. Carrying on downhill, the mist suddenly cleared with fabulous views all around, the first people we saw all morning came past us. Just before the top of Little Dun Fell (2,760ft) there is a rock carving showing the direction of the Pennine Way (11am). We were very happy to reach the top of Cross Fell (2,930feet) at 11.45am. This is the highest mountain in England outside the Lake District, nearly being an acclaimed 3,000-footer. We met a couple who were walking from Land's End to John O’Groats, wild camping for most of the time. We decided that they did not seem that happy, having already spent 46 days on the road, and still had a long way to go. We only hoped that they made it. We sat in the re-built shelter on the top of Cross Fell eating our lunch with fabulous views to the Lake District, Solway Firth and Scotland beyond-described as one of the best views in England. We did not linger for long due to the very cold wind, leaving at 12pm, happy that the main ascent was over. At 12.15pm we went right at a large cairn, arriving at Greg's hut at 12.30pm. We were intrigued to look round it having previously seen it on television and had just met a man who had stayed in it the previous night, having walked there from Alston. It did not disappoint with a small hall, living room with some plastic chairs and one large wooden bed, with some camping mats. A great place if you get stuck on the mountain. Roman times, the whole area has been famous for lead and some silver mining. We passed workers’ houses now in ruins with great views and disused lead mine workings. Downhill still, we went left at a crossroad with a stony yellow road (1.20pm). This track provides easy walking and access to the summer grouse shooting. If in a hurry to get to Alston, there is a short cut after Pikeman Hill to the left to Leadgate road. But the Pennine Way continues through Garrigill, we arrived there at 3.10pm. We visited St John's Church, which was small pretty and old. We bought a lovely take-out coffee (£2.00) from the post office/small shop, and sat on a bench on the pretty village green. The impressive looking pub was being renovated. We continued along the road passing a house built as a girl’s school in 1850. To the right is a sign to Alston 3.75 miles, following the beautiful South Tyne trail, which we took. Due to a Youtube description limit of 5000 characters, the full blog can be found on www.hikingwithdaveandbarbara.com