Mudjacking with Limestone Slurry is Better Than Cement Based Slabjacking скачать в хорошем качестве

Mudjacking with Limestone Slurry is Better Than Cement Based Slabjacking

https://fixitwise.com Mudjacking or Slabjacking with a Limestone Slurry ( AKA Stone Slurry Grout) is much better than the more expensive cement based mud slurries. This is a preview for an upcoming video series of a major concrete slab project that I completed using a limestone based slurry (without cement) with a large funnel and gravity to "pump" the slurry under the slabs. This was done as a preventative, filling the voids to keep the concrete slabs supported. I pumped 14,000 pounds of pulverized limestone under my garage slab and driveway slab... How do I know that a limestone slurry is better than a cement slurry? #1 The Ametican Concrete Institue says it at 4.1—Soil Support System Preparation: Manufactured sand from a rock-crushing operation works well; the jagged slivers tend to interlock and stabilize the material when compacted. #2 The years I spent on concrete mix design in my concrete countertop business. #3 Observation pouring 14,000 pounds of limestone slurry into over sixty 2-1/2" holes I cored into my slabs... There are a lot of myths out there about mudjacking versus polyjacking. The truth is, both methods are a good solution. The polyjacking folks talk about mudjacking being heavy and somehow further sinking the soil underneath from the weight. Thus causing more debonding from settlement AFTER the void is filled. Common sense will tell you that the pulverized limestone is no heavier than the soil beneath it. And surely not heavier than the concrete above it, which is applying downward force as well. The truth is that if the soil underneath continues to settle (guess what... it will) then any material placed in the void will eventually "debond". Be it foam or mud. The point about weight and mass that the polyjack folks should be claiming is that a cement based slurry will remain a heavy, hardened mass, stuck to the bottom of the concrete, pulling the slab and footings down when the ground underneath settles "debonds" more. This is not an issue with the pulverized limestone without cement. It will simply sink along with the soil, allowing you to come back and refill it... hopefully years down the road. Again, addressing the cause of the sinking earth beneath FIRST, is paramount for whichever method you choose. Note: You can't just use straight limestone sand and water. You need a flowing agent. One of the features of a limestone sand slurry is that it drains the water out quickly, (very quickly) allowing the interlocking slivers of mechanically pulverized rock to quickly interlock and compact... on their own. This feature of course impeads the flow. Without a flowing agent the slurry consolidates and plugs the hole as soon as you pour (or pump) it in... Again, drawing on the knowledge gained studying concrete mix design in my concrete countertop business. There are concrete additives that allow concrete to flow better, using less water. The drier to concrete mix, the strong the cured concrete will be. Too much water weakens concrete. The additives I used in my limestone slurry were a product from Rapid Set called Flow Control, available at my local home center. The product is designed for an 80 pound bag of redi-mix concrete. I can tell you that it makes the limestone slurry feel slippery and vastly increases to flowability by suspending the sand particles in the water... i used one packet per 180 pound batch. These additives go by other names. Plasticizers, Water Reducers, etc. Plus I added a half teaspoon of Dawn dish soap to each 180 pound batch in my concrete mixer. The one two punch created the flow I needed.