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First ascent of Lalung I (6,243m), Zanskar Region, via the east ridge - Here Comes the Sun (2,000m of climbing, M6+ AI5+) - September 9-14. Traversed the mountain and descended by the west ridge and north face. #Lalung #HereComesTheSun *** The Lalung Valley rises southwest from the Suru River, a little to the southeast of the more famous peaks of Nun and Kun. At its head lie Chiling I and II, and Lalung I, II and III, which are located at the boundaries of the Zanskar and Kishtwar regions. The #climbing history of the area is only roughly documented, and until recently a plethora of confusing names and altitudes have been granted erroneously to many of the peaks, features, and valleys. However, one thing is clear: before 2024 none of the Lalung peaks had received a documented ascent. In September 2024, having established an advanced base camp in the valley at 4,800m, Slovenians Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev, part of a four-member female #expedition, climbed the sharp and difficult east ridge of Lalung I over a period of five days, one and a half of these pinned inside their tent due to bad weather. On their final evening, a little below the summit, they lost tent poles to the wind and spent the night in #bivouac sacs. The following morning's mist made it hard to navigate the remaining terrain, but they reached the #summit at 9 a.m. on the 14th. The pair then made a long descent on the crest of the west ridge before making five rappels on the north face to reach the Lalung Glacier at 6:30 p.m. Here, they opted to continue down to advanced base, which took a further eight hours. Descending to what they presumed was a tranquil #basecamp, Petek and Verdev discovered their time away had been far from a relaxed experience for their resident compatriots. The camp had been forced to deal with almost nightly visits from bears that ripped or demolished tents and stole much of the food. *** www.pioletsdor.net @pioletsdor_ 2025 edition, from December 9 to 12, 2025 in San Martino di Castrozza, Passo Rolle, Primiero e Vano @visitsanmartino #PioletsdOr #SanMartinoDiCastrozza #alpinism