2 - Clutch master + slave cylinder rebuild, clutch fluid bleeding process скачать в хорошем качестве

2 - Clutch master + slave cylinder rebuild, clutch fluid bleeding process

0:00 Continuation from Part 1 0:26 Clutch master cylinder disassembly 1:54 Clutch master cylinder reassembly 3:13 Clutch slave cylinder disassembly 4:52 Clutch slave cylinder reassembly 5:58 Removal of fluid, master and slave cylinders 8:55 Clutch master and slave installation 10:30 Fluid bleed process 11:40 Squeak found 12:13 Conclusion Model shown: Honda City 5MT GM2 2009-2014 (RHD, steering wheel on right) -Same parts for same generation Honda Jazz GE8 and Fit 2008-2014. -If you have a LHD car, you may need to remove additional parts like the cowl and air filter housing -The last 6 characters of offical part numbers may differ due to difference between right and left hand models, and different region production. Honda clutch hydraulic design is more or less the same across various models. ------- Clutch Master Cylinder (CMC) Part Numbers: 46920-S7A-033 - complete assembly 46926-TA0-A01 - piston + push rod 1:31 46921-SMG-X01 - stopper 1:38 46182500013 - circlip 1:41 46928-S5A-003 - gasket, seal ring 1:44 Clutch Slave Cylinder (CSC) Part Numbers: 46930-SNA-A41 - complete assembly 46937-SS1-003 - rubber boot 4:03 (right most part) 46932-S5A-003 - piston 4:14 46948-S5A-003 - push rod 4:49 ------- Tools/parts used for CMC: 12mm deep socket (for inside nuts on clutch pedal) Various ratchets with extensions and angled adpaters 10mm flare and simple wrench 17mm wrench -Snap ring pliers Rubber grease Brake fluid (dot 3 or 4) Torque wrench (for clutch pedal bolts) Tools/parts used for CSC: 12mm socket Various ratchets with extensions and angled adpaters 10mm flare and simple wrench 17mm wrench Rubber grease Moly grease LM47 Torque wrench - Warren & Brown Deflecting Beam Tools/parts used for fluid drain/bleed: hose to attach on bleeder valve 8mm wrench Drain pan Brake fluid (dot 3 or 4) Another human (to push the clutch pedal) ---- This video shows you how to remove a Honda clutch master cylinder (CMC) and a clutch slave cylinder (CSC). I show internal parts for the clutch master and slave cylinder so you know what parts you need if you need to rebuild it. You can get a rebuild kit to replace internal parts if needed. I then show how to drain the clutch fluid out and then later to refill it, using the bleed process. When removing the CMC or CSC you need to drain the clutch (brake) fluid first. The CMC is held by bottom two 12mm bolts (torqued at 9.4 lbf-ft) located inside that also secures the clutch pedal. There is also a link, a retainer clip and petal pin that must be removed. You must crack open the brake line first. Hold the 17mm nut, then using a 10mm flare nut wrench open the brake line. Remove the reservoir bottle by pulling it up. When re-installing loosely connect the line before securing the CMC back. The CSC is held by two 12mm bolts torqued at 16 lbf-ft. Same as the CMC, crack open and remove the clutch line (17mm and 10mm nuts are used). When re-installing loosely connect the line before securing the CMC back. Apply moly grease on the end of the push rod that will go into the clutch fork. When draining or bleeing the fluid you need to crack loose the 8mm bleed valve on the CSC. Connect a hose to it, other end in a drain pan. Honda recommends two people to do a fluid bleed. The 1st person will crack the 8mm bleed valve nut open, the 2nd person will push the pedal, the 1st person will close the bleed valve and then the 2nd person will release the clutch pedal. If the pedal doesn't return on its own, it means there is still air in the system. Keep doing the process until it returns. This is the same procedure if you want to put fresh fluid in. Stop when you see fresh fluid draining out. I had a rattle sound, or sounded like a clutch bird chirping noise, when the car would be idleing. If I slightly touched or rested my foot on the clutch pedal it would go away. After cleaning and applying fresh grease inside the clutch slave cylinder and making sure I push the slave cylinder towards the fork (all shown in video), the rattle or chirp sound is goes. Overtime the interals of the slave cylinder (or even master) to get gummed up, especially if you do not change the clutch fluid regularily. So the spring inside the slave doesnt fully push the piston rod against the fork. #diy #clutch #noise #stickshift #clutchmaster #clutchslave #overhaul #stepbystep #tutorial #autorepair How to rebuild clutch slave cylinder bird chirping sound when car is idling clutch rattle idle clutch rattle goes way when pressing clutch clutch chirp sound when pressing clutch pedal chirping noise on idle honda clutch fluid bleed process how to change clutch fluid --- -Music by Oleksandr Savochka y -Music by ComaStudio -Music by Playsound -Music by QubeSounds -Rat green screen @artista361 --- Disclaimer: Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use is the sole responsibility of the user and not The Wrench Wiz.