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Ohatsu Tenjin - Osaka

Ohatsu Tenjin - Tsuyunoten Shrine - Osaka, Japan The “Ohatsu Tenjin Shrine,” whose official name is “Tsuyu no Tenjinja,” is one of the most popular Shinto Shrine in the busy, vibrant Umeda District, of Osaka. Legend has it that it was built 1300 years ago on an island, today it is located at the bottom of a shopping arcade called Ohatsu-Tenjindori Shotengai. In 1945, the shrine was destroyed by planes on a bombing raid and completely rebuilt in 1957. For this reason, Ohatsu Tenjin is recognized as a strong symbol of Umeda prosperity and resilience. The shrine takes its official name “Tsuyu no Tenjinja” from a poem written by Suguwara Michizane, a famous and important scholar of the Heian era. In the year 910, Suguwara Michizane was exiled from the Imperial court in Kyoto. During a visit to the shrine he wrote the famous verse: Dew falls with tears my sleeve is soaked when I think back on Kyoto The Japanese word for “dew” is “tsuyu;” after his death, Suguwara Michizane was deified as the god of learning, Tenjin and that’s why the shrine is called Tsuyu-no-Tenjinja or simply Tsuyunoten. In addition to its religious significance, the Shrine has indeed a symbolic significance linked to a dramatic love story, which may call to mind Romeo and Juliet impossible love. In 1703, the Shrine became the scene of the suicide of a young couple; an apprentice trader of Uchihomachi Hiranoya, Tokubei and a geisha of Dojimashinchi Tenmanya, Ohatsu. Their contrasted love story push the couple to suicide, choosing the Shrine as the settings where to put an end to their days. The shrine is also called “Ohatsu Tenjin” in tribute to the heroine Ohatsu. Chikamastu Monzaemon wrote a puppet play “bunraku” called “Sonezaki Shinju (Double Suicide) based on Ohatsu and Tokubei story. In the play an uncanny combination of family pressures, financial misfortune and the betrayal of a friend keep the lovers apart. This work has moved and still moves the audience to tears at every performance. The Shrine is very popular with young couples and those who look for true love. Young girls often write their prayers on special wooden plaques, called ema, shaped like the Ohatsu face or showing the images of Ohatsu and Tokubei. The Ohatsu Tenjin Shrine changes appearance on the 1st and 3rd Friday of each month, when a huge flea market moves in. On occasion of the double suicide 300th anniversary, a shrine parishioner donated 1 Million Yen “For Ohatsu”. Thanks to donations, in April 2004 a bronze statue was dedicated to the couple.