Beginner’s Guide to Installing the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2017 Subaru Forester скачать в хорошем качестве

Beginner’s Guide to Installing the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2017 Subaru Forester

Click for more info and reviews of this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Check out some similar Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm Search for other popular Subaru Forester parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2017... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe!    / etrailertv   Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t... Today on our 2017 Subaru Forester we're going to be installing the Draw-Tite class 2 custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 36523. This is what our hitch looks like when it's fully installed. As you can see it sits really nice and close to the fascia of the vehicle. Now this hitch is going to use a standard half inch pin and clip, which is not included but you can pick one up on our website using part number PC2. The ring around the receiver tube is for reinforcement so you know you have a strong sturdy hitch. The loop style safety chain loops are big enough to accommodate even larger hooks. Now this receiver has a 300 pound tongue weight, that's going to be the force pushing down. As well as a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount it can pull. Now you do want to check with your owners manual to make sure that your vehicle can handle that. Here are a few measurements to help you in choosing accessories such as a bike rack or cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outer edge of the bumper is six inches. From the top of the inside of the receiver tube to the ground is 14 inches. Now I'll show to install the hitch. To begin our installation, we're going to have to lower our exhaust down. I'm going to take this strap and before I disconnect anything, I'm going to go ahead and support the exhaust. Now I'm just going to wrap it right around the drive shaft here just enough so that it won't fall down and hit anything. We're just going to spray a little lubricant on the rubber hangers to help get them off. You're just going to want to try to work that rubber off of the metal stem here, just like that. Another option instead of taking the entire exhaust system down is you can unbolt the muffler and then you only have two locations to take your hangers off of. The next step in our installation is to be taking down the heat shield and you're going to have four 10 millimeter bolts to get that down. As you can see on our frame rail underneath, we have four factory plugs. We're going to need to remove all of those. You can just take a flat head screwdriver, get underneath it and they'll pop out. We'll do the same thing on the other side. The next step in our installation per the instructions is to make this hole a little bigger but what we found is, is that the excess hole in the back is already larger so we don't have to take as much material off to get the blocks in there. We're going to be using a step drill bit and we're just going to make this big enough just to allow our hardware to get inside. Now this is the plate it's going to be going through and as you can see we got just enough room to get our hardware in. Now what we'll do is we're going to take our fishing wire and we're going to feed it through this front hole here and we're going to go all the way until you can see it out the back here. Now I do want to mention we did just get done drilling this, so you want to be careful not to cut your fingers. Once we have our fishing wire through, we're going to take our supplied plate, go through the end and push it up into the frame. Now with that in there, we're going to thread our bolt on to the end. Now that we have our bolt on, we're going to come to the other end of our pole wire and we're going to feed everything up into the frame and pull all bolts out. Now we're going to repeat that process for the other tow holes as well. As you can see we have all our hardware in. Now I do want to mention since we did drill this and it's bare metal, I'm going to be applying a little bit of paint just to resist the rust and corrosion. With this side finished up, we're going to go ahead and do the same process on the other side. Now with an extra set of hands we're going to have help putting our hitch into position and you're going to want to make sure to thread the pole wires through the appropriate holes on the hitch. Just like that and then we can pull the wire off. We're going to take the conical tooth washer and you're going to want to make sure that the teeth are facing the hitch and install your washer and nut. Now with our hitch supported with one nut on each side, we can go ahead and install the rest of the hardware. With all of our hardware in place, we can go ahead and start snugging them down. With all our hardware snug, we're going to go ahead and torque it down to the specified amount in the instructions and we're using a 1