Sewing An Early 1940's Bra | Vintage Lingerie скачать в хорошем качестве

Sewing An Early 1940's Bra | Vintage Lingerie

This 1940s bra was a... frustrating project. Before embarking on this particular bra, I'd trialed a number of vintage patterns from Etsy and found the mockups needed significant adjustments to achieve a decent fit for mah gals. It became clear that making my own pattern would be the easier route to take. Even doing so, I still felt like setting this on fire at least once a day. My research on vintage lingerie of the '40s - sewing patterns, advertisements, the vintage garments on Etsy - all inspired this project. It's certainly not a replica of any extant garment, but it firmly nods in that direction. Some changes I would make: switch the outer fabric to a cotton lawn (for sanity's sake), less curved and more triangular along the top of the lower cup, split the lower cup into 2 parts so I can remove the darts, flat fell the seams, and topstitch like it's going out of style. ------------ Here are the notes I've gathered from my research. May you find them useful! Overall: The 1940s saw a lot of varieties in bras. It seemed like lingerie makers were trying out many new ideas and seeing what would work. The one nearly consistent feature was a more-or-less horizontal seam in the cup. Cups: A single horizontal seam in the cups is present on nearly every bra. This seam may be slightly triangular but does appear horizontal-ish when worn. Darts were frequently placed in the lower cup for shaping and much more rarely the lower cup was in 2 pieces. Topstitching in the lower cup only is more likely to occur in the mid-'40s. Spiral stitching in the lower and upper cup seems to occur in the very late '40s. Lining: Lower cups were almost always lined and upper cups were almost always unlined. The remainder of the bra may be lined. It seems to depend on the outer fabric, i.e., a sturdier fabric was less likely to be lined other than the lower cups. Straps: Typically entirely ribbon or fabric in most. Typically not adjustable; however, one bra had straps with multiple buttonholes and a button sewn onto each upper cup that allowed for adjustment. Later in the 40s, straps were made with metal sliders for adjustment as well as a portion of the strap being elastic. Frame, Bridge, & Band: There was significant variation in these. Bras may be no-framed or framed. Framed bras tended to be longer than modern bras. The very earliest bras of this decade showed a tendency to be square-ish at the lower cup/frame seam. This rapidly changed to a more curved shape, which better follows the inframammary fold. Elastic was seen in some interesting places. Some examples are an elastic wedge at the bottom of the bridge, an elastic wedge at the frame/band seam, and an elastic "spine" of 5 elastic strips on the back of a front closure bra. Closures: The closure might be found on the back, front, or side. Buttons or a single row of hooks and eyes were common, with the hook and eye version more common with storebought bras. Other closures used involved elastic. These included a large hook on an elastic strap that hooked onto a strip of fabric with metal eyelets and a closure made from 2 V's of elastic and a G-hook similar to those found on modern bikinis. ------------------- Wondering about pointy bullet bras? While invented in 1941, they didn't start gaining their uber-pointiness until the late 1940s and reached their peak (😉) in the 1950s. Earlier in the '40s, bras tended to be more rounded but with a definite horizontal seam in the cup - like a duckbill mask for your boobs. ----------- Supplies Used (* denotes affiliate links): Rayon Challis in Blush White Cotton Voile (https://amzn.to/3uZ2yod)* Vintage Pantywaist Buttons - can usually be found on Etsy Beeswax Thread Bar (   • How to Make Beeswax Thread Conditioning Ba...  ) - My super quick video on making your own. French Curve (https://amzn.to/3jYyfH1)* 18" Ruler (https://amzn.to/2VUkBMS)* Scissors (https://amzn.to/3bPmvEv)* & Snips (https://amzn.to/2KphbfA)* Tailor's Chalk (https://amzn.to/3k65TuO)* Filmed With (* denotes affiliate links): Ye olde (circa 2012) Canon EOS Rebel T3i (you can find them used for under $300) Canon EOS M50 (https://amzn.to/3mKols4)* SD Cards (https://amzn.to/2WLJ9Vp)* Tall Tripod (a hand-me-down) Tabletop Tripod (https://amzn.to/38yTdXy)* You Can Also Find Me At: My Website: https://bramblewoodhill.com IG:   / bramblewoodhill   *I'm a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. Thank you so much for your support! ❤️*