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This time-lapse sequence was taken on 12/21/22 from the 8th floor of the Westmark Hotel, Fairbanks, Alaska. The soundtrack is from an album by John Luther Adams called Arctic Dreams, from which I used track 1. "The Place Where You Go To Listen" (Used by permission of Taiga Press (BMI)). I am honored that Mr. Adams gave me permission to use this piece of music. I wanted to relay the feeling of being in his exhibit in The Museum of the North called "The Place Where You Go to Listen." In that exhibit, the music is generated with the ever-changing inputs from the naturally occurring forces of interior Alaska. https://www.johnlutheradams.net/ https://johnlutheradams-coldblue.band... https://uaf.edu/museum/exhibits/galle... Prepare for the 2024 Total Solar Eclipse. VISIT https://www.solareclipsetimer.com/ and get my eclipse timing app and my book. Please subscribe to my YouTube channel for eclipse and astronomy content like this. Ten Tips On How To Do This Solstice Time-Lapse For Yourself 1. Book a room on the 8th floor of the Westmark and specifically request a room facing South overlooking 10th Ave. They only have rooms with master beds facing that direction. Westmark Fairbanks, 813 Noble Street, (907) 456-7722. 2. You need to flush your camera lens against the glass to prevent ghosting images from reflecting off any of the four surfaces of the double-paned glass. 3. Place two legs of your tripod up on the windowsill and the third leg towards the room floor. I needed to use an ice bucket to make up some height for the third leg. 4. Tape a piece of black cloth to the window that drapes over the back of your gear to prevent reflections from the room back into the glass and possibly into your camera. 5. Use autofocus to focus on the distant horizon, then switch to manual focus, and tape down the focus ring. You don't want the camera's auto-focus to work on each shot and potentially get confused later by the brilliant Sun. 6. Use manual exposure mode and set an exposure you like for a deeply colored dawn horizon. You need a small aperture for an extended depth of focus, and it will get very bright later if there are few or no clouds, so you need a small aperture to decrease light. My dawn settings were f/16, ISO 800, and 1/125s. I used a Nikon Z50 with a Nikon 16 to 50 mm lens. 7. When the Sun clears Mt. Hayes, the Sun will set after spanning about 45° along the horizon. I planned to use my lens set at 24mm DX lens giving a FOV of 52°. But I made an ERROR! I did not account for the fact the windows in the Westmark don't face due South. They slant about 4° or 5° to the East. So, I ran out of room on my sensor's right side (West) and had to zoom out to 16mm on my lens at the end of my sequence. (In other words, Mt. Hayes did not start out far enough toward the left side of my frame). 8. If imaging from the Westmark choose a camera and lens combination with a horizontal FOV of about 72° because you need 20° of the horizon to the west of Keevy Peak. If imaging outside from another location in town, and you can face your camera due south (180°), you need 30° to the east and 30° to the west. The left side of your image should start just to the east of Mt. Hayes. Be advised, on the day I did my imaging from inside the Westmark it was -38 degrees outside. 9. Take an image at least every 4 minutes, as I did. However, at 4-minute intervals, you will likely miss a very short time where the Sun peaks through a valley just to the east side of Mt. Hayes, then gets covered by Mt. Hayes, and then re-appears on the West side of the mountain. With my 4-minute intervals, I missed the short duration "peak through" on the east side. With 2-minute intervals, you have a better chance of catching that. You certainly would catch it with 1-minute intervals. The Sun moves one solar diameter every 2 minutes. It moves 1 degree in the sky every 4 minutes. But keep in mind that you need time to review images in-between shots because you will have to adjust your shutter speed (see step 10). 10. You will need to change your shutter speed as the Sun rises in the sky depending on the cloud conditions on the horizon. I had clear skies and started my dawn images at 1/125s. When the full Sun became visible and brighter above the mountains, I took several images at 1/160s. Then when slightly higher, I changed to 1/200s. I used 1/200s with the higher Sun, through solar noon, and until the Sun got lower in the West and then did the opposite: 1/160s for some images, and then the final images at 1/125s through the setting Sun. You don't want to adjust your shutter speed too often or too drastically because you don't want to change the exposure appearance of the foreground parking lot and buildings and make it obvious that you are adjusting your shutter speed. The inversion layer did not force me to alter my shutter speed, the features of the imaging remained consistently bright.