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WARNING: Viewer assumes any and all risks when working on their vehicle. Always consult with a professional before attempting any repairs. Never work under a car only supported by a floor jack, or only supported by ramps. Use jack stands and extra redundancies. Banjo Bolt Torque (new washers) - 25 ft-lbs Rear Brake Caliper Bolts (slider pin) - 17 ft-lbs Rear Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts - 80 ft-lbs Lug Nut Torque - 80 ft-lbs The original symptom of this car was bad gas mileage. Jacking up each corner of the car and trying to turn each wheel while the car is in neutral (chock the opposing wheel) is a good way to diagnose sticky brakes. I found the right rear to be hard to turn by hand, and I confirmed that's the problem because once you take the brakes apart, you can check each component individually. Make sure you are 100% set on what the diagnosis is before spending money on new parts. My old ways were to throw parts at it until the problem is gone, but this is not the most economical approach. Overall a very simple caliper replacement. It is similar on most makes and models. The key takeaway here is to be clean - this is not like doing just pads a rotors in that you are required to open the hydraulic system. Air will also get into the system and it needs to be burped out. This is done doing a full brake flush, but to be honest, I usually get away with just bleeding the caliper until no air comes out and topping up the master cylinder reservoir. The fluid was done recently on this car anyway (why it appears so clean). THE BRAKE PEDAL MUST FEEL NORMAL BEFORE DRIVING. If the pedal feels overly mushy, there is air in the lines, and the car should not be driven until the problem is rectified. Be safe and use common sense. If you are not mechanically inclined, I recommend you take it to your local shop.