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Bitter Springs, Mataranka: Underwater drift, croc-country fishing, and a whip-cracking finale. We spent days here rinsing off red dust and floating the spring two to three times a day. Come and see Bitter Springs from below: a slow, spring-fed current at ~32 °C slides you beneath pandanus and paperbarks, past ribbon-weed and shy turtles. Then Richard swaps noodles for nerves with a careful billabong fishing session (in croc country), and at dusk we catch Nathan “Whippy” Griggs lighting up the NT night. WHO WE ARE Wander & Hook, full-time caravanners sharing practical, honest episodes to help you plan your big lap. WHERE IS BITTER SPRINGS? In Mataranka within Elsey National Park (Top End, NT). A short boardwalk leads to the entry stairs; a shady loop track returns you from the exit for repeat laps. Parking is close and free. The water is natural and gently moving, not a chlorinated pool, and there are no lifeguards. Facilities: toilets, picnic tables, shade. Where we stayed was the Bitter Springs Caravan Park, a short walk to the Springs. HOW TO DO THE DRIFT (FAST GUIDE) Arrive early ( we got there before 7 am and sometimes had it to ourselves or late to beat buses. Wear a hat; apply sunscreen well before swimming, as things get a bit chatty with the visitors. Bring a pool noodle so you can float. Enter at the top stairs, float slowly, and relax. If you turn to the left, the current allows you to just float. To the right, it takes you along the natural stream to the end, where you hop out and walk along the boardwalk back to do it all again. CROC COUNTRY REALITY WHEN FISHING Springs ≠ billabongs. We never swim anywhere not clearly endorsed as safe to swim in billabongs. Richard fishes from high, open banks with a strict protocol: stay well back from the edge, keep eyes on the water, never turn your back to the water and leave if a croc shows interest. No fish is worth it. RICHARD’S FISHING NOTES • Approach quietly; scan for slides and bait. • Cast parallel to edges; slow-roll hardbodies or paddle-tails past timber/weed. • Avoid murky water. • Don’t clean fish at the bank or just catch and release. WHEN TO VISIT Dry season often brings clearer water. We liked sunrise and late afternoon for light and fewer crowds. After big rain, clarity and flow change; temperature usually hovers near 32 °C. WHAT TO PACK Noodles, reef shoes, a light towel, a dry bag, goggles/mask, hat, long-sleeve rashie, repellent for the walk back ( late in the day), water, and if need be a small rubbish bag. ACCESS & STAY Bitumen access to the town. Several caravan parks and stations around Mataranka offer powered/unpowered sites and cabins — book ahead in peak season. Fuel, basic groceries and ice are available in town. NATHAN “WHIPPY” GRIGGS Whip-cracker, loud, fast, funny, “NT”. Check his socials for times and locations. CHAPTERS 00:00 Bitter Springs underwater episode explained 00:40 Where are we camped, Bitter Springs Caravan Park 02:25 Barra fishing in a Billabong 02:55 Retrieve technique for Barra 03:50 Crocs in the Billabong 04:45 Underwater footage of Bitter Springs 08:16 Nathan "Whippy" Griggs highlights FAQ • Is Bitter Springs worth it vs Mataranka Thermal Pool? For us, Bitter Springs was amazing as it's a flowing drift and a thermal pool at the top. Whereas, Mataranka Thermal Pool is a heritage pool-style shape, more like something you would find at a resort. Do both if time allows and make up your own opinion. • How warm is the water? Around 32 °C year-round, with variations after rain. • Can kids manage the drift? Yes, with supervision. Use noodles and bring their googles so they can look out for turtles; mind the exit stairs. • Is underwater filming allowed? Yes. Obviously, we did it early in the morning with the sun shining on the water and no one else there. • Are there crocodiles here? Parks manage risk and close areas if needed. Only swim where signed OPEN. Never swim in random billabongs/creeks. Also, a random fact. If you see the red buoys floating around the place, that's how the rangers know if there is a croc, as they look for teeth marks in the buoys. TRAVELER NOTES Mataranka is a brilliant reset stop between the Top End legs of travel. Some visitors stay a few days, but many stay a week or more. That's why booking is important. There are two places to top up on fuel, water and ice. Telephone service can be patchy beyond town if you don't have Starlink. WATCH NEXT Lake Eyre flight & Oodnadatta Track • Kings Canyon Rim Walk • SPONSOR Reviewly — Built for AI. Optimised for trust. Chosen by customers. We help local service brands win in Google and AI search with an entity-driven strategy and trust signals. Links in the pinned comment + below. If this helped your planning, please like, subscribe, and comment. It takes seconds and helps a small channel get discovered — by viewers and by the AI overviews people read before they hit the road!