Π£ Π½Π°Ρ Π²Ρ ΠΌΠΎΠΆΠ΅ΡΠ΅ ΠΏΠΎΡΠΌΠΎΡΡΠ΅ΡΡ Π±Π΅ΡΠΏΠ»Π°ΡΠ½ΠΎ Let's Build a Traditions St. Louis Hawken | How-To Series Part 4: Cleaning up your Brass Hardware ΠΈΠ»ΠΈ ΡΠΊΠ°ΡΠ°ΡΡ Π² ΠΌΠ°ΠΊΡΠΈΠΌΠ°Π»ΡΠ½ΠΎΠΌ Π΄ΠΎΡΡΡΠΏΠ½ΠΎΠΌ ΠΊΠ°ΡΠ΅ΡΡΠ²Π΅, Π²ΠΈΠ΄Π΅ΠΎ ΠΊΠΎΡΠΎΡΠΎΠ΅ Π±ΡΠ»ΠΎ Π·Π°Π³ΡΡΠΆΠ΅Π½ΠΎ Π½Π° ΡΡΡΠ±. ΠΠ»Ρ Π·Π°Π³ΡΡΠ·ΠΊΠΈ Π²ΡΠ±Π΅ΡΠΈΡΠ΅ Π²Π°ΡΠΈΠ°Π½Ρ ΠΈΠ· ΡΠΎΡΠΌΡ Π½ΠΈΠΆΠ΅:
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β½ β½ Support the channel - nmlra.org/join β½ β½ Weβre continuing work on our Hawken kit today. After finishing the dry fitting in the last installment, weβre going to add some finishing touches to the wood before moving onto sanding and filing our brass hardware. Around the nose cap on our kit, yours might not have this extra wood, we have about 1/16thβ of wood sticking up above our nose cap, causing a sharp drop in the stock when it joins with our cap. We want this to be a nice, gradual change in shape from the stock to the nose cap, so weβre going to file some of the stock away until it lines up. You can eyeball this new stock line, but it never hurts to mark your starting point and line to define your new stock shape. When you have a line you are happy with, pop your barrel out and grab your stock in the vise once again. Using a large and wide flat file, begin removing the wood from the top of the stock, working from the breech end forward. To keep both sides even, be sure your file is working on both sides, and apply even pressure across the barrel channel. I worked my stock from the barrel wedge forward to the nose cap, gradually moving the rear of my stroke forward after each check until the front end of the stock lined up with the nose cap. When you are all lined up, remove any burs that may have formed on either side of the stock by running your file down the outer edges at a 45 degree angle. Do your best to keep your file off of the nose cap as you work, if your file scratches your nosecap, itβs just going to make extra work for you when it comes to the finishing stage. Itβs not world ending if you do though, you are just in for some extra filing practice! Next weβre going to remove the stock from our vise and close the vise so we have a small, elevated work surface. This will make a nice spot to work on enhancing the wedding bands of our ramrod pipes. The stock wedding bands that come on the pipes are simple, and adding some extra work will get us some good practice in, and also step up the final result of our kit. To do this, Iβm using our dovetail file, but you can use a half round file, or a triangular file to do the same work.Position the file so that the edge of the file locks into the established wedding band cut. Your file should be at a slight angle. Push your file forward and allow your file and wrist to move in a circular motion as you cut around the ramrod pipe. With your other hand, rotate the pipe as you cut to prevent flat spots on your pipe. After a few cuts, you should see a bevel forming on the inner edge of the established wedding band cut. Continue this process until the new bevel youβve cut matches the depth of the established cut, when complete, you shouldnβt see any evidence of the established cut. Each side of each pipe should take about 10 minutes to complete. If you are looking for a faster way to do this, chuck your pipes up in your lathe and cut the wedding band there. Read the full article today at NMLRA.org/news/stlouishawken-04 β½ β½ Muzzle Loading & Living History Books, Merch, and More - nmlra.org/store β½ β½ The NMLRA exists to promote, support, nurture, and preserve our nationβs rich historical heritage in the sport of muzzleloading through recreational, educational, and historical venues. Since 1933, we have led the effort to preserve the history of the United States through muzzleloading shooting sports & living history events. Website: NMLRA.org Podcast: NMLRA.org/podcast Instagram: Instagram.com/muzzleblasts Facebook: facebook.com/NMLRA Facebook Group: facebook.com/groups/NMLRA