An Introduction to Oil Priming скачать в хорошем качестве

An Introduction to Oil Priming

Canvases and other painting supports made from natural fibres require sizing prior to oil priming, in order to form a sufficient barrier between the oil and the natural fibres in order to avoid the oil seeping into the fibres and causing them to rot. Traditionally a size made from rabbit skin glue is used by oil painters to do this. Most commonly rabbit skin glue is available in granules which need to be soaked in water (1 part granules to 5 parts water) over night. The granules soak up the water and form a gel. This gel should then be heated in a double boiler (bain marie), and when it is heated through it melts into a liquid. A soft brush should be used to apply a very thin coating of the glue to your raw canvas - it should not really be a coating but just enough to penetrate the fibres. Once the glue has dried for a few hours your canvas will feel tighter (if it is stretched on a frame) and is ready for priming. The pre-prepared rabbit skin glue formulation from Robersons is made from granules already soaked in water, so you just need to heat to use. Some artists prefer not to use rabbit skin glue because of the smell and inconvenience, and also the fact that it is proven that rabbit skin glue continues to absorb water in humid conditions, which means that the particles are always contracting and expanding. This is thought to have caused many old oil paintings to crack. Acrylic mediums are not hygroscopic and once dry do not absorb water, and so many artists favour sizing their canvases with acrylic mediums for this reason, as well as the fact that these mediums do not require heating to use. How to Prime (Advice applies to both acrylic and oil primer) Use a synthetic or relatively soft hog hair brush that is clean and dry. Load with primer and apply evenly by brushing the paint on in random, varied directions. If the paint is not gliding on easily dilute it (with water if it is acrylic or solvent if it is oil). I find that by dipping my brush into a pot of solvent or water before dipping into undiluted primer, I am able to achieve just the right consistency of primer for application, but everyone finds their preferred method with experience. Keep the layer of primer as thin as possible and leave to dry -- at least 3-4 hours for acrylic primer and overnight for oil primer. Then apply a new layer if necessary. The more layers of primer the less absorbent the canvas will feel, and the brighter your colours will appear. Most artists tend to apply 2-3 layers before considering a canvas ready for working on. If you like a particularly smooth surface on which to work, gently rub a fine piece of glass or sandpaper over the canvas to remove any lumps that may have appeared in the primer. Now you have your blank canvas and the possibilities of what you paint on it are limitless. Might I just add here that if you have a photograph or drawing that you are keen to transpose on to canvas, we sell a range of projectors (including the digital art projector which you can plug straight into your pc or mac) that are designed solely for the purpose of easily doing this otherwise time consuming task. • Grounds, primers and size at Jackson's: https://www.jacksonsart.com/studio/su...