Assembly of MYLAN Condor Spiral Staircase in 6 minutes скачать в хорошем качестве

Assembly of MYLAN Condor Spiral Staircase in 6 minutes

INSTRUCTIONS: The assembly instructions provided are not good. They are written poorly and the illustrations are so far off scale it’s hard to identify some of the parts/hardware. PARTS & HARDWARE: There are no extra critical parts so don’t mess up, but lots of leftover/extra hardware we never did figure out what they were for. The instructions say it requires 3 people to assemble but I did most of it alone and only needed assistance in a couple tricky parts so yes, it can be done with 2 people if you have decent skills and some help. CENTER COLUMN & STEPS: We assembled the center tube one section at a time because it made more sense. You’ll NEED 3 ladders and a step-stool (8’ a 10’ and a 12’ extension) unless you’re an acrobat. Just stack the stair steps on as you go up one section at a time. Be sure to drill each steel step (for mounting the wood step cover later) before locking it in place with the set-screws and bolting on the main balusters. The instructions didn’t mention that. When you do install the wood step covers later you’ll notice the screws provided for securing the wood step covers from underneath are number 10x1 inch square drive and have been powder coated so just throw them away! They seemed too big and long for this application anyway. The paint in the square drive is so thick you won’t get your bit into a single one of them anyway. I went with slightly smaller screws (number 8x5/8”) so that if they ever got loose or wallowed out I could always go bigger later if needed. Definitely pre-drill the holes in the wood too before installing the screws. SET STAIRS & MAIN BALUSTERS: Bolting the main balusters in place will automatically determine each stair position and were the easiest part of the job. When you’re finished with setting each step in position and locking the set-screws you’ll come back and install the two in-between balusters. Since each of these need to be a custom cut length, they were the hardest part of the job. Each of the in-between balusters has to be cut the exact length to fit right so be very careful - you don’t have extras. The instructions say ‘cut with a saw’, but believe me, you’ll NEED to use a chop saw with a steel-cutting blade. You’ll be surprised at how thick-walled the steel baluster pipes are. And, they’re difficult to pound onto the expanding lock-down device on each stair step. It took about 8-9 minutes to do each one and I think there were 28 of them. And, it’s hard working on a twisted spiral. Beware, the holes in the top of each baluster is too small for the self-tapping screws they provide so you really need to pre-drill them bigger (7/32” or more) or you’ll have fits. Screwing each steel baluster to the aluminum handrail from underneath is difficult because there isn’t much room between them to get on each screw straight. You’ll see. RAILING & TOP PLATFORM: If you use a railing mounted to your top steel platform be sure to cut off the tabs at the bottom of the railing where they mount on top of the upper platform so that the large 3x3 wood cover will lay flat on the steel platform. GOOD LUCK: I’m not a video expert or content creator. This is just a “helpful summary” without extraneous details or stupid warnings and cautions. I hope it helps you see what you’re getting into and get it done with a little less frustration. Hit me up in the comments if you have questions and be sure to let me know if you appreciate this summary.