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00:00 Begin 00:06 Battery Door 00:20 Battery Wire Harness 00:42 One Screw Behind the Battery Door 00:56 Pry Tool to Pop the Faceplate Off 01:52 Buttons Sliding Around 02:04 Faceplate Comes Off 02:34 Rear Screw Needs to Come Out to Remove Faceplate 02:55 Face Button Caps are Swappable 03:20 The Face Button Caps Need to be Correctly Oriented to Fit 04:34 The Sticks Can Get Stuck if Overextended 05:13 The Faceplate Prevents the Sticks from Overextending 06:29 H510's Face Button Caps are More Modular 07:32 Z2's Handles are Very Comfortable 08:14 Things to Change for Their Next Controller 08:34 Why They Don't Use Hall Effect Sticks 08:49 Back to Things for Their Next Controller 09:14 The D-Pad Has to be Oriented Just So 11:05 Pry Tool to Separate the Faceplate 11:23 Friction Fit Design is Too Tight 11:43 Great Triggers 11:46 Inferior Shoulder Buttons 12:12 M Button Caps Pop Off 12:23 As Do the Trigger Caps 12:30 The Shoulder Buttons Do Not Have Caps 13:33 Getting to the Board 13:55 Detaches it From the Back 14:13 Rumble Wire Harness 15:06 Clips That Hold the Board to the Plastic 15:24 Clicky Face Button Switches 15:34 Reassembly 16:13 Situation the Plus, Minus, and Capture Buttons 17:24 Trigger Distance Position 18:02 Reassembly... Again 19:02 No Notches to Secure the Face Button Caps in the Faceplate for Easy Reassembly 19:30 Done! 20:23 Reconnecting the Battery Wire Harness 21:44 Not Done