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Tripura Sundari

Where there’s a will, there’s a way – they say. Half a century after the Great Railway Bubble in England, the sahibs in Assam were to modify that saying. And for that they came up with a spirit – Where there’s a will, there’s a railway! And the original alignment of the Assam Bengal Railway’s Hill Section came into being after a huge mortal sacrifice. It was said that there’s a corpse lying under every sleeper of that railroad. And I am not exaggerating this fact. Not sure how many families lost their sole earning dearest ones from wildlife attacks, attack by some Pathan contractor, clash between the working clans, landslide disasters, tunnelling disasters, and attack from the mighty General of nature called Malaria and his lesser companions like Cholera. But the line opened – against all the adversities. Because Orwell while working under similar geography and environment had rightfully observed “a sahib has got to act like a sahib”. And that was the spirit working behind many other difficult projects during the Raj. Conversion of this Hill Section to a wider gauge was not an eaqsy task either. Malaria is a weak old force, but not in the grave either. Cholera has been defended against. Pathans don’t visit those hills anymore. After a hundred years of that original line, railways of the natives are now well prepared to say good bye to the railways of the Raj here. They were well armed against all the odds, except for two – the mischievous land and political deceits. Nature stroke back, bullets hit random targets around the existing tracks, construction people disappeared never to return, mediators were found and engaged, some kind of colourful rectangular papers were discovered to have immense capacity to maintain peace at any level for a certain time, project cost rose. One cycle of this happens, the nature strikes back again. That means another alignment, another survey, another cycle of what had happened earlier. No amount of existing technology can stabilise which nature intends to keep unstable. And socio-political factors are added dark spices to that messy curry of construction. A courageous unfortunate railway driver earned Kirti Chakra posthumously, and engines and wagons were made bulletproof. Therefore, a stretch of less than a hundred kilometres took almost one and a half decades to get bigger tracks. Today, tourists throng upon those places. No bullets appear anywhere near the railway tracks. But the natural disaster still remains – continuously fought back by the National Highway Authority while trying to build and complete the first four-lane project of the country (East-West Corridor). There are stretches where there was a road and there isn’t when you return an hour later. In all these hundred thousand miles of running, my vehicle has witnessed this quite frequently. So this time, getting some new rubber for the car I patted her and asked for forgiveness for taking her to that route once again. A tyre got slashed by something under sludge, and there was nowhere you could change it. But where you could, you first spot your train that has covered 2600km to appear in your frame.