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What happens when you stop fixing problems… and start pushing a 3D printer further than you thought possible? In this video, I take my Ender 3 V2 and see just how far I can push first-layer quality and overall performance by installing the BTT Eddy Duo and making a few custom modifications along the way. Before upgrading anything, I start with a full 220×220mm first-layer test using a traditional probe—and the results honestly surprised me. From there, this turns into a hands-on upgrade journey: designing custom mounts, reworking the hotend, flashing firmware, dialing in Klipper, and learning where precision actually matters (and where it doesn’t). Some parts went smoothly, others required a few redesigns, but that’s part of the fun of modifying a printer instead of just replacing it. In the end, I compare first-layer results and print performance between a stock Ender 3 V3 and my heavily modified Ender 3 V2—and the results might not be what you expect. This isn’t a step-by-step tutorial. It’s a real look at the process of upgrading, experimenting, and ending up with a printer you’re genuinely proud of. 00:00 The Hook 00:11 The Test 00:45 Step 1 Installing the Eddy 01:51 Step 2 Installing the Firmware 05:00 Step 3 Printer Configuration 07:32 Step 4 Current Calibration 07:42 Step 5 Nozzle Height 08:37 Step 6 Bed Mesh Calibration 09:14 Step 7? TCC 10:54 Step 7 Z-Offset 12:05 The Race Ender3 V2 Improved Hotend by Developing Woot | Download free STL model | Printables.com 📦 Commands: Step 2 cd ~/klipper git checkout master make menuconfig make lsusb make flash FLASH_DEVICE="insert your device ID here" ls /dev/serial/by-id/* Sudo reboot Step 3 LDC_CALIBRATE_DRIVE_CURRENT CHIP=btt_eddy SAVE_CONFIG Step 5 PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE_AUTO CHIP=btt_eddy SAVE_CONFIG Step 6 G28 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scanBED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan SAVE_CONFIG Step 7 Z-Offset G28 G1 Z0