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Pants Fitting: Waist Dart vs Pleats 2 года назад


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Pants Fitting: Waist Dart vs Pleats

Today I'm taking a break from working on my Top Down Center Out Pants Fitting to take a deep dive into what the differences are between a waist dart and a pleat. First we'll take a look at a basic trouser draft. Don't worry, it won't get too technical, I just want to share how trousers are drafted, and how the waistline is shaped. I think this will help to explain why a waist dart is different than a pleat... even though they both take up excess ease along the waistline. Then I'll show you some mini fabric front and back legs that have waist dart(s) or pleats. You'll be able to see the differences for yourself! Then I'm sharing two cool YouTube Channels that are also working on the Top Down Center Out Method so you can go check them out too! 00:00 Intro 00:57 How are the width and length of the trouser pattern determined? 02:20 Establish the vertical key areas (waist, full hip,crotch level, knee, hem) 03:08 How the waist, crotch, inseams and side seams are drafted 05:38 What does a waist dart do to the shape of the leg? 07:59 What does a front leg look like with pleat marked on it 08:45 What is the difference between a waist dart and a pleat 10:05 A pleat adds additional fabric (ease) to the leg 10:52 Pleats direct the fabric in a specific direction down the leg 11:48 A Pleat does not have to go all the way to the hem 13:56 Two YouTube Channels sharing Top Down Center Out Tutorials 15:51 Upgrades to my YouTube Channel If you would like to stay in touch, sign up below for my monthly newsletter. As a special gift for joining, you will receive a free PDF pack of mini pattern pieces so you can practice along with me on my weekly Youtube series, Fit Tip Tuesday! https://bit.ly/3LAchsY Janine Sews:    / janinesews   The Crooked Hem:    / @thecrookedhem   For more info check Threads issue 218 Practical Pants Fitting by Ruth Collins Subscribe to Threads Magazine: https://www.threadsmagazine.com/magazine Amazon Affiliate Links: Over the door hanging full length mirror: https://amzn.to/3QZBiOw The Pattern Cutting Made Easy Book by Gillian Holman: https://amzn.to/3KlDwpb Dritz Clear Grid Ruler: https://amzn.to/3dAfnP6 Alpha Numeric Paper: https://amzn.to/3QSU3Tq Fairgate L-Shaped Ruler: https://amzn.to/3CdsxvQ Playlist for this Pants Fitting Series:    • Never Scoop the Crotch & The Top Down...   Links to Everything J Stern Designs (Email, Zoom Classes & More!) https://linktr.ee/jsterndesigns Questions? [email protected] Join my new FB Group: J Stern Designs Fit Sew Embroider   / 2844012669147142   Love my cutting mat? Get yours here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/BIGROTARYCU...

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