У нас вы можете посмотреть бесплатно 2022-Jun-01 XK A210 T-28 Trojan warbird RC plane, 7-10 mph wind, using Devo10 Tx running DeviationTx или скачать в максимальном доступном качестве, видео которое было загружено на ютуб. Для загрузки выберите вариант из формы ниже:
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At a local park, Wisconsin, 6:00 pm, 7-10 mph wind. Transmitter is: Walkera Devo10 running DeviationTx firmware and with 4-in-1 multi-protocol RF module inside. https://www.deviationtx.com/ Receiver: Can't bind directly to the A210 flight control board with the 4-in-1 modules, so need to connect via a separate receiver. I used a tiny S.BUS FlySky FS-A8S receiver, $9 from AliExpress. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32568... ** If anyone wants some information about connecting an Rx and binding, or about how I set up my mixers, shoot me a note ** The A210 is really awesome. Love it. Crashes like a pro and just laughs it off. Long flight times. Is a lot of fun to fly, even in the wind! PROPS though are probably going to be the biggest problem. They have a really well-designed prop hub that (so far) never has let the prop come off while flying, but in a crash, the moment the prop bumps anything it pops off instead of wrecking the motor, motor mount, or the prop itself. BUT... finding the black prop in grass or dirt (etc.) is REALLY hard. Like I absolutely expect to have a perfectly flying plane 3 months from now but no props left to fly it with. So I STRONGLY recommend 1) Paint the center of all your props bright neon safety orange so you can see it well. I tried safety yellow but it didn't stand out well against the green grass. Also, DON'T PAINT THE PROP TIPS...that can too-easily throw off the balance and aerodynamics of the prop and your plane will have less thrust, more vibration, and more wear & tear in the motor/prop drive system. 2) Buy at least 1 or 2 extra props AND prop hubs. When the prop pops off and you can't find it, guess what? One half of the prop hub assembly is attached to the prop and is also lost. NOTE about SPARE PROPS: And from a Q&A response on Banggood.com: "If you cannot find the correct XK parts (or if they're obscenely expensive), you can remove the plastic cup part from the plane's output shaft and fit the COMPLETE system from the V761 planes (Volantex Sport Cub or Eachine Mini Warbirds etc.) Note that the individual parts of the 2 systems are not cross-compatible but the motor output shafts ARE the same!!" If you are fairly new to flying and you're quite sure you only want to fly it in fully-stabilized mode, or if you're on a really tight budget and don't have a stand-alone hobby-grade transmitter and you're okay with sticking to fully-stabilized mode only, then you need absolutely nothing more than what comes in the box! (Just get like 1 or 2 extra batteries, and a couple extra props and prop hubs.) The transmitter that comes with it and the mixers they have hard-programmed into it work great with stabilized mode. But... The transmitter that comes with it (or rather the way they have the mixers set up) super sucks in non-stabilized mode. Like BAD. It's like they have a ton of expo in the mixer curves in non-stabilized mode, so much so that when you try to make small adjustments to control surfaces (worst offender being the elevator) essentially nothing happens with the plane. So then you push the stick further, but nothing happens, so then you push it further, and finally it reacts...but it reacts far too late, and it when it does finally react it reacts far too much and you get over-reaction with the plane reacting erratically and unexpectedly in the directly you were trying to go subtly. So if you know you want to fly this plane (or any of the 380 mm XK warbirds) in non-stabilized mode, you've GOT to have some sort of programmable transmitter and a compatible micro receiver, and you have to put negative (inverse) expo in the some of the curves...ESPECIALLY the elevator curve. FYI - channel 5 toggles stability mode on and off. Barrel rolls: This plane does barrel rolls quite well. In this video I do a few pretty lousy ones, but that's due to me not being a very good pilot, and me running mid-rates on elevator travel. If I switched to high rates or added some more positive expo, this would barrel roll faster and more cleanly I think. Loops: Totally capable of doing loops, but it was kind of squirrelly. I need some practice, and maybe if I do larger loops it won't be so unstable? Inverted flight: Haven't tried it yet. Next time... In this flight I started with the stock battery around 4.18v, flew for 12 minutes till my timer beeped, and 10 minutes later after I stopped when I checked the battery it was still at 3.8v. Doing the math, you should be able to fly around 14 minutes and still have the battery come to rest around a safe 3.7 volts.