DIY Bullet Feeder скачать в хорошем качестве

DIY Bullet Feeder

Similar in design and fabrication to the Mr. Bullet Feeder/Entirely Crimson model, I followed that as a guide to produce my own on the cheap. Parts: 1 - 12" x 4' x 1/2" sheet of low density fiber board (I suggest using something a little nicer but this was dirt cheap) $4 1 - "For Rent" sign. It's a thick grade plastic sheet that was perfect to mold around the hopper. Easy to cut. Easy to modify. $2 1 - 6v-24v DC Motor Controller. Amazon.com. Forward and Reverse switch and Speed Control. $10 1 - 2 pack of HDPE cutting boards. Harborfrieght.com. $7 1 - 12v 5 RPM right angle drive motor. Ebay.com. $10 The rest of the parts are basically miscellaneous hardware, screws, roll pins, etc. that I had readily available. The base: It's a 7" diameter with a 2" shelf in the front. I cut the LDFB using my router and a circle cutting jig I fabricated. Using a straight cutting bit, I just cut the circle portion to the shelf, adjusted the radius and cut the outer radius of the shelf. I then used a hand saw to cut the straight leg back to the rotating portion. The Sub Base: This is the HDPE cutting board, 1/4" thick. Using the same diameter as the base, I cut the HDPE with my router. The slip ramp pull out, where the bullet can flip, was cut using a utility knife (and some patience). The Bullet Collator Disk: Again, using the same diameter jig, I cut the LDFB with my router. I set up another jig for my router (you can use a drill press for this as well) to cut out the slots for the bullets. Be sure to measure three times (they say twice...do it three) for the diameter of the caliber you intend to use. The 1/2" depth of the LDFB may be a bit too deep and I am considering replacing this, but for now this is the 'beta' version. (Note: My slots are too big for my intended use, 9 mm/.380 Auto. I will likely use the other sheet of HDPE cutting board to remake this part as it's aproximately 3/8" thick) The 'For Rent' Sign Shroud: Yes it's "For Rent". Not really, but the plastic was thick enough and pliable enough without heat to measure and form around the Base of the unit. I pre-drilled holes and attached it to the base with screws around the circumference. I might double this up in the future. It might be too thin a material if problems are encountered, such as a misaligned bullet or a jam. Something to consider or use a better grade material. I wanted to stay with plastics for the ease of use, but sheet metal would be good (albeit noisier) for this. My design extends the plastic 6" above and 2" below the base. These leaves room to hold bullets and also room to mount the electronics.