What Really Causes Ocean Waves to Break Near Shore скачать в хорошем качестве

What Really Causes Ocean Waves to Break Near Shore

Waves seem to rise and collapse suddenly as they reach the shore. But that motion is not random. In this episode of Beneath the Surface, we explore what actually causes ocean waves to break. From deep water swells to shallow shorelines, we follow how changes in depth slow a wave from below, tilt it forward, and eventually cause it to collapse. Along the way, we look at how seafloor shape controls where waves break, why steep shorelines produce sudden impacts, and how gentle slopes spread energy out over distance. What looks chaotic at the shore follows simple, predictable rules beneath the surface. New episodes explore the hidden processes shaping the natural world.