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HUECO TANKS Double Double Day (Le Chninkel Post-break)

Christmas Day in Hueco Tanks State Park. 12/25/2024 • Went on a solo mission to get the “possible” first post-break ascent of Le Chninkel. And to finish up Ayanami Rei. • Le Chninkel is a sharp roof problem with reachy moves and morpho body positioning that requires lots of mobility, especially post-break. The right hand crimp-pinch before the lip broke about three years ago making the previous beta unfeasible. The beta I found uses a second, higher drop-knee to reach up to an uncomfortable pinch above my head. I have to drop-knee so deep to where my hip is touching the roof and almost hyperextend my elbow to get the pinch correctly. Due to all these factors and because I fit in the box and have enough mobility to make these moves I think it’s quite a bit harder than it used to be. Only time will tell, but I have to feeling most people will struggle to get into the higher drop-knee and make the successive moves the way I did. There are other ways to get past the crux section, but I believe harder. It went at V11 before, but I’m proposing V12 post-break. • Ayanami Rei is beautiful problem up in the Maiden Gully. It lies in the bottom of a pit, surrounded by house size boulders, which makes it dark all times of the day. It climbs techy and insecure and tops out about 20 feet off the deck, with a boulder behind in the fall zone. Due to the dab potential on the boulder behind, you have to stay very close to the wall through the crux. If not for this I think it would get 4 stars. But it’s still one of the best lines I’ve done at Hueco. • Chapters: 00:00 Introduction 00:46 Le Chninkel V12? 02:53 Ayanami Rei V11