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(14 Nov 2000) Italian/Eng/Nat STORY: ITALY/FUR FEED TIME: NOV. 10, SEPTEMBER Glamour and fashion demand sacrifices even if it means cruelty, say many of Italian's top designers who are unapologetically reintroducing fur into their range of products. The long campaign against cruelty in fashion has been dealt a blow the latest exploitation of fur by the style gurus. This season's controversial comeback is being ushered in with fashion's new, trendy, big-glamour look. But not only this, fur is being found in the strangest of places: on bags and cuffs, as collars and wraps, as home accessories like stools, cushions, throw rugs and even shows up in all colours. Pelts used in include mink, chinchilla, rabbit, fox, skunk and even kiddies' favourites, hamsters and squirrel skin. In fact, the "new fur" doesn't' stand alone, it is part of a set, part of a complete look made up of bits and pieces essential to looking glamorous. Available in so many new ways, it is much more accessible. Most of all, in the new age of fur, you don't necessarily have to be rich to buy. "Democratic luxury," is how one marketing executive described it. And yes, the public is buying can be seen during a simple walk through Rome's shopping central, the Via dei Condotti. Virtually every other woman has some type of fur attire, from collars, to wraps, and she can be seen gazing into one of the vitrines, most of which put their fur accessories and garments on on front view. However, some designers, like Moschino, maintain the moral stand against fur in fashion still not using it in their collections. But many in Italy's design industry are less queasy about the idea of fur. In Rome, a recent exhibition called "Furriers Forever, Extravagance in Fur" at the elegant Ferrajoli Palace, was packed despite the need for heavy security. The feared direct action protests by anti-fur activists, who have enlivened many catwalk shows in the past, never failed to materialise and the exhibition was a hit. According to GATTINONI designer Stefano Dominella, fur is "SEXY" and for him, seeing a woman in fur makes him want to "discover what is beneath it". In the home, says designer Egon von Furstenburg, there is nothing "more sensual than a big fur blanket on your bed". The natural origins of the fur is masked by the new designs and many of the pelts were coloured to reach the exciting vibrant hues of orange, apple green, fuscia, turquoise By shaving or brushing some types of fur, the effect that comes across is a mix of high tech and cured luxury. By not over-doing the use of fur on one jacket, but by mixing it up with soft fabrics like cashmere, brocade and baby-soft leathers, the clothes maintain a feather-light drape. But behind the fashion-speak there was a mixture of cruelty and desperation says PETA (People for the the Ethical treatment of Animals) spokesperson Walter Caporal. This new trendy use of fur is a smoke-screen to the reality that there is crisis in demand as people are turned- off by the grisly orgins of fur. Find out more about AP Archive: http://www.aparchive.com/HowWeWork Twitter: / ap_archive Facebook: / aparchives Instagram: / apnews You can license this story through AP Archive: http://www.aparchive.com/metadata/you...