How to make a BRAKE PARACHUTE - FG Dragster RC custom build скачать в хорошем качестве

How to make a BRAKE PARACHUTE - FG Dragster RC custom build

Today I'm adding the finishing touch to my FG Dodge Challenger 1/5th scale Dragster build: I'm adding a functioning brake parachute. I want the chute to look scale, plus I want to be able to stay on the throttle as I deploy it. In a previous video I explain how to make a line-locker system to lock the front wheels separately as I step on the throttle to do a burnout. The very same servo will be used to deploy a brake parachute, and being operated from the 4th channel of my Futaba 4PL radio makes sure I can keep the engine running at full speed as the parachute starts to pull on the back of the car. I use a lot of random items to build this setup: the cost of it is less than 20 dollars! One of the key items is a box with a spring operated lid, that I had laying around for a set of cufflinks. Combined with some other random materials, like a piece of fabric, some steel fishing line and an extra brake linkage and a few collets, I managed to get this system to function. The parachute used can be found in various sizes and are intended originally for model rockets. They are extremely cheap, and the quality of them is spot on for the price. I couldn't find any scale looking wheelie bars for this monster-to-be, so I decided to construct my own. I took some Axial balljoints and rodends, that I had as spares. These parts, listed in the links below, are intended for the 4-link suspension setup of the Axial SCX10. By adding some M4 threaded rods, slid into some 6mm aluminium tubing, I can line the whole construction up for my needs. I added a modified bodypost from the same parts tree to mount the top to the rear shocktower. On the rear, I slid some of the aluminium tubing through the 4 rodends to connect them, and used an Axial winchblock to act as a "wheel" in between them. The functionality of the wheelie bar is not as important as the look. And, I wanted to keep the cost low. A wheelie bar like this will end up costing you around 20 dollar. Axial balljoints: http://www.axialracing.com/products/a... Axial rodends: http://www.axialracing.com/products/a... Axial winchblock: http://www.axialracing.com/products?u... The tires I want to use on the rear need to have a larger diameter. I sourced a set of rear 5th scale Formula 1 rims and tires, that I drill and dremel out to fit to my Centerline rims. A link to the tires can be found here: https://www.fg-onlineshop.de/ItemBloc... This build is going to have a ton of special features, a few of them rather unique, and I will take you through the whole build process step by step so if you want to, you can follow along. Make sure to subscribe! For more information about the FG Sportsline, visit the FG Modellsport webstore: https://www.fg-onlineshop.de/ To see more pictures of the diecast engine I used for this build, check this link: http://libertyclassics.com/ And to purchase one, or have a look at ton of diecast models, visit Tom's site: http://www.toms.nl/ Please subscribe! For more information about HemiStorm Products feel free to join us on FaceBook: https://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/p... To visit the HemiStorm website and have a look at the products we develop for largescale RC cars, click the following link: http://www.hemistorm.com/ For HemiStorm RC Clothing, click the following link: http://www.twostrokerc.com/HemiStorm-... Intro music purchased at Productiontrax.com License Option B: Commercial, for-profit, distribution, or broadcast, all Packages, and Photos apply