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Filling 3D prints to remove the filament lines is essential to creating finished props. In this tutorial I talk about the process generally, and then show my favorite method using Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty thinned with acetone to rapidly apply fast-drying coats. I then sand the filler smooth, and move to using a final pass of Filler Primer, that gets wet-sanded smooth. A final coat of primer reveals the smooth surface, ready for paint. Important: Acetone melts ABS, so this will not work with ABS prints without likely destroying the print below. The prints in this video are all PLA. Prints used in this tutorial: Custom Mandalorian helmet "The Operator" by Alter Ego Armory, files found here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/16557339... -Print of the helmet purchased from Villainous Prop Shop: https://www.etsy.com/listing/16605987... -Custom Mandalorian Shoulder "SB-MK2" by Alter Ego Armory, files found here:https://www.etsy.com/listing/12832421... -Print of the shoulder purchased from Villainous Prop Shop: https://www.etsy.com/listing/13048261... Mandalorian Right Thigh: File by Great Ape Studio Art, print purchased from Clever3DStudio: https://www.etsy.com/listing/11252043... Sanding sticks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... ---------- See some of my other weathering tutorial videos: Part 1: Weathering Theory - • Prop Weathering Tutorial - Part 1: We... Part 2: Acrylic Wash Weathering - • Prop Weathering Tutorial - Part 2: Ac... Part 3: Chipped Paint Weathering - • Prop Weathering Tutorial - Part 3: Ch... Part 4: Fuller's Earth Weathering - • Prop Weathering Tutorial - Part 4: Fu... Part 5: Alcohol Ink Speckle Weathering - • Prop Weathering 5: Alcohol-based Ink ... Custom Costume Cases tutorials (part 1-4): • Customizing Costume Containers - Part... Follow more of my builds where I post them as I am doing them: Instagram: / oddviking