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Glover Garden - Western Mansions, Harbour Views, and a Softer Side of Nagasaki After the emotional weight of the Peace Park and the Atomic Bomb Museum, I needed a change of atmosphere. Nagasaki is famously hilly, and I didn’t fancy climbing steep slopes today, so I treated myself to a taxi ride, my first taxi experience in Japan! It was quick, efficient, and dropped me right at the entrance of Glover Garden. Glover Garden sits on the Minamiyamate hillside, overlooking Nagasaki Harbour. It’s an open‑air museum preserving the homes of Western merchants who settled here after Japan ended its long period of isolation in the mid‑19th century. The contrast with my morning’s solemn visits was striking - this place felt light, breezy, and full of stories from a different chapter of Nagasaki’s history. The garden is built around several beautifully restored residences, all designated Important Cultural Properties. The entire site is connected by moving walkways, making it easy to explore despite the steep terrain. The star attraction is the Former Glover House, built in 1863 for Scottish merchant Thomas Blake Glover, a key figure in Japan’s modernization. It is the oldest surviving Western‑style wooden house in Japan, a blend of Western and Japanese design, complete with verandas, French windows, and a traditional tiled roof with oni‑gawara (demon tiles) to ward off evil In 2015, it was registered as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Sites of Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution.” The house is also famously associated with Puccini’s opera “Madame Butterfly - many believe the setting was inspired by Glover’s life and the atmosphere of Nagasaki. The garden also preserves two other important Western homes: Former Ringer House (1865) - home of British merchant Frederick Ringer, who helped modernize Nagasaki’s trade and industry. Former Alt House - residence of merchant William Alt, featuring Tuscan pillars and a pediment. Its architectural style suggests it may have been designed by a Western architect and it has historical ties to Nagasaki’s Masonic Lodge. While walking through the grounds, I saw the preserved stone gate of the Nagasaki Masonic Lodge, dating back to 1885, a fascinating reminder of the city’s international connections. One of the highlights of Glover Garden is the panoramic view over Nagasaki Harbour, Mount Inasa and the terraced hillsides dotted with houses. Even on a slightly cloudy afternoon, the view was stunning - peaceful, expansive, and full of character. It offered a completely different perspective on Nagasaki, one shaped by trade, culture, and global exchange rather than war and loss. Glover Garden was exactly what I needed. It lifted my spirits and showed me a softer, more romantic side of Nagasaki’s history. The gardens were quiet, the houses beautifully preserved, and the views unforgettable. After such an emotionally intense morning, spending time here felt restorative, a reminder that Nagasaki is not defined only by tragedy, but also by resilience, beauty, and a long history of openness to the world.