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A trip back to Maroc after a 45 year absence. The sounds, the smells, the warmth of the people has not changed. The suppression of opportunities for the masses has also not changed; the king is still loved though to a foreigner, the excesses by his family and the ruling class/party continue to be difficult to observe. Some cities have retained their magic...Fez!..Some have completely lost it: Marrakech...(how painful it is to see when one knew the magical oasis and berber market it once was. Mostly, the crafts and artistry (you've got to know where to shop) remains outstanding. Some cities areas have not changed at all..the Ville Francaise in Rabat is exactly as was in 1950, as for the rest of Rabat, I could not find my way around it...Impossible to find my way, even in streets that were my home, so much has it been reshaped and hugely expanded in the span of my absence. For me, it was also about finding old friends, reliving favorite habits (tea at the Oudaya gardens), and just being in this land for all five senses.