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In this episode, Lesiba Mabitsela sits in conversation with Zambian designer Lerato Shemi to revisit the moment their paths crossed during the Pan-African Research Residency (PARR) in Durban, when it hosted the New Patterns workshop in collaboration with DUT. The dialogue unfolds as a layered reflection on heritage, materiality, taboo, gender, punk aesthetics, and the political histories that shape African textile cultures today. In tracing Lerato’s creative practice—an exploration of Chitenge, reimagined through punk and alternative subcultures—emerges is a nuanced reflection on how clothing carries social expectation, conservatism, gendered norms, and quiet forms of resistance. The dialogue widens into punk in Africa, particularly Zamrock, and how so-called “alternative” aesthetics have long existed on the continent, though often erased or dismissed through colonial and missionary influence, tracing black subcultural groups during the apartheid era and their deeper African genealogies that shaped global punk’s visual language. Across the episode, what emerges is a portrait of New Patterns as lived pedagogy — a methodology shaped through encounter, vulnerability, experimentation, and the reactivation of cultural memory. The conversation reveals how a workshop about barkcloth became, for both speakers, a site of reclamation: of identity, of creativity, of African futurity. This dialogue offers a textured companion to the New Patterns curriculum, showing how decolonial design takes shape not only in the workbook, but in the lives and practices of those who participate in its making. Archival Materials & Images 1. Wrap Me in My History (2023), filmed and edited by Bongani Tau for AFRI’s Pan African Research Residency (PARR), Durban workshop facilitated by Sheila Nakitende & Liz Kobusinge 2. Barkcloth harvesting (okukuuma/okugumika) and stretching footage, filmed by Bongani Tau in Masaka, Uganda during PARR 2024 3. Ngozi Family Nizakupanga Ngozi (1975) — Zamrock reference for educational commentary (fair use) 4. @guzangs archive image (Instagram, sourced 2023) for contextual reference in conversation about Zambian craft and heritage Episode Readings Edward P. Mintz – Zamrock: The Heavy Rock Scene in 1970s Zambia Walter Mignolo – Local Histories / Global Designs Credits BEHIND-THE-PATTERN — a series by the African Fashion Research Institute (AFRI) Concept, Editorial Direction & Series Producer Siviwe James Contributors Dr Erica de Greef Scott Williams Bongani Tau Lerato Shemi Lesiba Mabitsela Editing Siviwe James Design & Layout (Workbook Materials) Nontokozo Tshabalala Funders & Supporters National Arts Council (NAC) Special Thanks Participants and community partners in Standerton, Daveyton, Mapungubwe, Durban, Bloemfontein, Kimberley and Cape Town. © 2025 African Fashion Research Institute (AFRI) and Siviwe James. Produced by Siviwe James within the New Patterns project. Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution–NonCommercial–ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0). AFRI Instagram: @afri.digital Website: https://afri.digital/ LinkedIn:  / afri-digital