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Once a glittering regional capital, modern Naples' reputation has been tarnished by organised crime and soaring unemployment but in this week's programme, Amanda Palmer and the 48 team meet local journalists Andrea and Ilaria, who show them how this brash city is determined to shrug off the forces holding it back. The most destructive of these forces is the local mafia, The Camorra older and arguably more powerful than Sicily's Cosa Nostra - which operates like a vast corporation controlling Neapolitan business and local politics. But some are willing to challenge their power, as 48 discovers when Andrea takes the team to meet the The "Sott' 'o pont'" (Under the Bridge) theatre company an organisation trying to educate teenagers about the dangers of Camorrista life through drama. For many, the most vivid image of modern Naples is the 'garbage crisis', which left the city festering in uncollected refuse for nearly a year. We head to the suburb of Villaricca, home to Europe's largest rubbish dump, to meet local percussion band Bidonvillarik. Their musical instruments are built from rubbish to draw attention to the garbage crisis - which, they say, is far from over. Naples is proud to have maintained its own language, and nowhere is it more alive than in its beloved local folk music, Canzone Napoletana. We meet 12-year-old Fortuna, one of the genre's hugely popular child singers, as she performs to an enraptured crowd at a birthday party in one of the narrow streets of the Forcella district.