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Click for more info and reviews of this Tekonsha Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring: https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V... Check out some similar Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguidet1.htm Search for other popular Jeep Compass parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2016... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! / etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t... Today on our 2016 Jeep Compass, we're going to be showing you how to install the Tow Ready T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with the 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Part number is 118539. This is what your wiring kit is going to look like when you pull it out of the package. Here, of course, is what we're after, our 4-flat trailer connector. You can see a nice dust cover connected to it. This is going to give us brake lights. It's going to give us blinkers. It's going to give us trailer clearance lights back to a trailer, maybe a cargo carrier, or something like that. It does it by using the converter box that we see here. It receives signal from both the driver's side and from the passenger side. It converts that into a usable signal that our trailer is going to recognize. Now the converter itself has stand-alone power so we're not drawing any power from the system. We're just receiving that signal with our T-connector plugs. These allow us to connect directly inline between our tail light housing and our factory wiring so we don't have to worry about cutting into any of the factory wiring. We've got a ground wire here. Ring terminal is already attached. We'll be using the provided self-tapping screw to secure that. To power our box, we simple connect the 12-volt wire that we have here to the red wire. We'll run that up, and we're going to connect that to our battery. Now to make the connection here, we're going to be using a butt connector. The one supplied with the kit are not waterproof. We're going to be replacing that with part number DW07545. It's going to be a 10-12 Gauge Yellow Heat Shrink Butt Connector. We're going to be using two of those. The first thing we need to do is get in here and get our tail lights removed. We've got push-pin fasteners at the bottom and at the top here that we need to get taken out. You can see you just pull that center out and that outside will come. We just want to carefully pull out slightly and then rearward on the light that will allow us to separate the two locking tabs. At that point, it's going to slide over on that red lock. Then we can push down on our tab here and separate it. Do the same thing over on our passenger side now. Now we're ready to take our green wire, which is going to run over to the passenger side. We want to feed this down through the area that's going to be between the body and the rear bumper or rear fascia there. It's also going to feed our 4-pole wire down that same direction. Then here at the top, we'll grab our T-connector that has the yellow, brown, and red wire. This is going to plug in directly to our factory wiring. You want to hear that little click, push your locking tab over. We've got that connection made. Now we've got a few other wires here we're going to tend to before we get this side wrapped up. You can see where our 4-pole and where our wire for the right signal comes down. I'm also going to run my black 12-volt wire down that way, too. I want to hold one end of it, but the rest of it I'm going to let pass down through that same opening. Strip back our wire coming out of our box, also the one we just ran down. Here's that heat shrink butt connector I told you about. These really provide superior moisture protection. I highly recommend them anytime you're making a connection on the outside of your vehicle. Now we're able to use a heat gun. In our case, we're going to use a lighter here. We just want to get this shrunk down. When it gets shrinked down, you'll see that wire. It actually looks like it magnifies or it gets larger. Then a little bit of gel that comes out of the end there. That means we've done it properly. We want to prep a flat surface inside of that area between the body and the fascia with a little bit of rubbing alcohol so we ensure that when we put that in place, it sticks really well. Pull the backing off our double-stick foam tape there, bring that right down into position, and make sure we get it adhered in the place really well, usually just by pushing on it for 15-20 seconds. It will really get a good hold, and we won't have to worry about it coming loose. Now we're going to get our 1/4" bit driver and the provided self-tapping screw. A nice surface right here we can use to ground out our ground wire. I like that we use the self-tapping screw to get the hole created. Then we can place it through that ring terminal and secure it down. Make su