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Rear Axle Replacement | Honda S2000 скачать в хорошем качестве

Rear Axle Replacement | Honda S2000 8 лет назад

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Rear Axle Replacement | Honda S2000
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Rear Axle Replacement | Honda S2000

Hey everyone! Today I’m going to show you how to replace the rear axle of a Honda S2000. Steps 1. The first thing you need to do is remove the rear axle nut. Unless you have an impact gun you’re going to want to do this while the car is on the ground. Remove the center cap and use a 36mm socket with an impact gun or a ¾ inch breaker bar to remove the nut. 2. With the axle nut off you want to jack the rear of the car up, put it on jackstands, remove the rear wheels, and remove the parking brake. 3. In order to get enough clearance to remove the axles you need to pop the lower ball joint on the rear wheel knuckle. Bend and wiggle the cotter pin on the ball joint to remove it. Remove the castle nut using a 17mm socket and impact gun. Lastly, use a ball joint separator tool to pop the ball joint out of place. 4. In order to get enough clearance we will also need to remove the ABS sensor. Remove the ABS sensor using a 10mm socket and ratchet. If the sensor is stuck pry it out from underneath. 5. Now its time to remove the outer CV joint from the knuckle. Wiggle the knuckle around while using a hammer and punch to push the axle out of the wheel hub. It will be difficult, but with some light force you should be able to swing the axle out. 6. With the outer CV joint removed, use an impact gun with a 14mm socket to remove the 6 bolts holding the axle to the differential. Find a position where you can access one of the bolts very well and then just spin the axles to move the bolts into place. 7. At this point the axle should be completely free. Pull the axle out of the way and insert the new axle in its place, making sure that the inner CV joint lines up into the differential properly. With the inner CV joint in place rotate the wheel knuckle and wiggle the outer CV joint into the wheel hub. 8. Use a 14mm socket and wrench to tighten the 6 bolts that hold the axle to the differential. I’ve found that it is easiest to lodge the wrench against the car to keep the axles from spinning. Another option is to use the parking brake but you will find yourself engaging and disengaging it over and over again as you move the axles to reach the bolts. Torque the driveshaft bolts to 61 ft-lbs. 9. Replace the ABS sensor using a 10mm socket and ratchet. Torque it to 8.7 ft-lbs. 10. With the axle in place you can now secure the lower ball joint on the rear lower control arm. This can be a bit tricky because as you tighten the castle nut it will have a tendency to spin unless the ball joint is under pressure. What I found easiest was to use a c-clamp to squeeze the ball joint to the rear lower control arm. Torque the lower ball joint castle nut to 51 ft-lbs. Once the castle nut is torqued insert a new cotter pin in place. If you cannot get a cotter pin through you can tighten the castle nut an additional amount, not exceeding 58 ft-lbs. 11. Install the wheels, engage the parking brake, remove the jackstands, and lower the car back down to the ground. 12. Apply a thin layer of grease to the back side of the nut and reinstall it using a 36mm socket. Torque it to 150-180 ft-lbs. Grab your ¾ inch breaker bar or impact gun and turn the nut at least another 60 degrees. If you look carefully at the nut you can see how many degrees it has moved by looking at where the nut was previously staked. 13. Stake the nut using a staking tool or a hammer and chisel. Lastly replace your center caps and you’re done.

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