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This video is to show how to make an inexpensive grow light. It focuses on an off grid 12V (possibly 24V) version but also provides info for running off AC power as well. Parts required: Aluminum Strip. This is the backbone of the fixture where everything attaches to and is used for mounting the actual fixture. It may also pull some heat away from the LEDs but this is questionable. At the very least it cools itself and doesn’t add to the LEDs getting hot. These are best obtained at your local hardware store in a size that makes sense for you. LED grow light strip. Can order with an AC power supply if operating on grid. Select your ratio of RED/BLUE light. 4:1is a good place to start. We use the waterproof IP65 version as humidity condenses in a green house. If you don’t get the waterproof version be sure to scrape the conformal coating (clear coat) off the contacts if you intend on soldering wire to them. This kit comes with the adapter plug for running from an AC to 12V power supply. https://www.ebay.com/itm/294991461532?hash...|tkp:Bk9SR-Tr6oGyYQ&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338966664&customid=DIYGrowLight&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 Green (or other) LED strip. Choose whatever color you think is right for your plants. We chose green but only through testing will you know for sure. Choose the water proof option unless your area is particularly dry. Again if you choose the non-waterproof option and you are soldering, you will need to scrape off the coating first. https://ebay.us/8i57Lo HOMAX Welder Glue. Absolutely love this stuff, one of the best glues I’ve used on plastics. Use this to keep your LED strip from falling off when the self adhesive backing stops being adhesive. https://ebay.us/vp40Qq Off grid only: 12V Buck Regulator. Used to ensure the voltage never exceeds 12V. Doing so will damage your LED strip. This is only needed if you’re running off batteries. We ran ours off a 12V system. Though I’ve not tested it yet, specs on the regulator should allow running off a 24V system as well. https://ebay.us/u8bxgM Push on Quick Connects. We use these to connect the light to the batteries (via a breaker and switch). Pack of 200 of male and female type. https://ebay.us/IY0ScY 6-32 x 3/8” screw for mounting regulator https://ebay.us/fVEgDC 6-32 nut (Select 6-32 from drop down) https://ebay.us/isLEb5 6-32 Washer (Select #6 from drop down) https://ebay.us/hTVSbl Non-Soldering: Union block for connecting your wires without soldering. There are many options for doing this, I happen to like this one because it does a good job of hiding the exposed wires and allows easy removal. If desired, glue or tape the block down to the aluminum. They give you 50 but the price is right. Maybe an excuse to make more lights. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255342972129?hash...|tkp:Bk9SR7DgnYOyYQ&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338966664&customid=DIYGrowLight&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 Other non-soldering parts are included in the LED grow light kit (not the green kit) Soldering If you don’t want to be wasteful and want a reliable connection, soldering is the way to go. Soldering Iron – If you don’t already have one and aren’t a professional solderer, I’d recommend starting with X-tronic 3020. It has allot of the features of the higher end irons without the price tag. I use it for all my projects. Probably not good for high volume work but for those using it just a few times a week it should last a while. 4 years on mine so far I believe. https://ebay.us/J8SV0g 20 ga. Hookup Wire. Used for making the LED strips usable again after being cut. Kit comes with several colors. For this project we used the red and black only. https://ebay.us/lxrgi4 We are an Ebay affiliate. So if you decide to use our links and purchase, we will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.