Update on attempt at pear rust control*, apricot fruit set & tale of discoveries скачать в хорошем качестве

Update on attempt at pear rust control*, apricot fruit set & tale of discoveries

Comments about and my attempts at pear rust control were based on opinions formed through observations growing pears as an amateur gardener and were not based on scientific findings. Research papers I have now read increased understanding - exploring the principle of creating a micro climate where leaf wetness period (through both direct rainfall and humidity/condensation on leaf) is reduced as a method to reduce rust spore germination. Here is the link to the research https://stud.epsilon.slu.se/2131/ Other research concludes in orchards higher severity is observed on trees in outer rows (more exposed to wind carrying rust spores) https://www.researchgate.net/publicat... The research also explored use of a sulphur fungicide and oils mentioning commercial orchards. I have never used or intend to use either oils or fungicides in the garden and if you are considering this I think will need to check whether any product you are thinking of using in a garden is legal to use in the locality. The structures are something an individual amateur gardener may cobble together for amateur gardening purposes and not something I am recommending anyone else constructs. The apricot grows happily at the base of a large holly tree which will now start dropping its inner older leaves around it and the nearby peach/ cherry trees creating a timely mulch. The leaves that fall are smooth and only the very lower leaves from some shoots nearer the ground are prickly. Chosen Rootstock Torinel (less vigorous than St JA) Update on Obelisk pear - attempt at pear rust control. The columnar nature of this variety makes it easier to cover. The tree has had a good start due to the warm spring plus being under a cover. In summer I anticipate deep watering perhaps once every 1-2 weeks from the rainwater tanks. Although the outer poly prevents rain falling directly onto the tree and the rootzone, it appears based on the recent rain we had that surface runoff from the poly/ area is reaching the tree. The revised set up with the frame, poly and fleece curtain has a generous amount of space between the tree and the fleece curtain/ poly and the tree seems quite healthy in the enhanced warmth & protection of this environment and is growing well. I do not anticipate a risk of scorch at the moment. The fleece is also tempering the effects of harsh sunlight through the outer poly and can see this set up being workable through summer. During extended days of dry, hot and sunny weather the poly cover could possibly be rolled back although removing the curtain would lose any potential diverting and microclimate effect. It is more likely I may use the burlap shown in the apricot frost protection video if required, draping it over the poly (note 26/04 added due to higher temperatures). There will still be plenty of light filtering through but this extra layer may help protect the tree well from excess sun/ heat and so potentially spider mite. The tree may have also achieve a canopy of well established leaves which are less susceptible to rust faster due to the enhanced rate of growth in the protected environment. The cover/s could then be gradually removed as the risk of pear rust decreases. The research in Sweden indicated infection of pear leaves occur at the time of basidiospores release on junipers, usually from the mid of April to end of May. The first signs (see photos on page 11) are small yellow dots on the pear leaf surface in June, which is what I also observe in June sometimes it seems after a period of rainy weather for a few days. I may utilize & try to actively manage the covers through June & July. Until they were cut down recently we had a pair of old brutes of pear trees growing between ours and the neighbours and adjoining gardens still have specimens of these old trees. There are also some magnificent junipers and it would be impractical to try to prune out infections on the junipers or any cankers on the pear trees which can sometimes sustain rust in any case without the need for junipers to act as a host. The Obelisk pear tree has normal length branches (they are just more upright and stay closer to the trunk), so if it can be kept rust free and healthy should eventually be capable of producing a good crop of pears on the QA rootstock once established. These are picked before they fully ripen and store until well into the new year in a cool dry place or longer if refrigerated. If successful there is space next to it to plant another (looking at research on Conference on rootstock quince eline) extending the frame & turning this into a pear production area potentially providing a bag of pears from storage a week for many months. In regard to the Discovery apple taste can be subjective and the apples improved considerably as it established just like many other varieties of fruit can and the farmer may have been joking.