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The past 10 months have been unthinkably tough for restaurateurs. @ninacompton’s two New Orleans restaurants @bywateramericanbistro and @comperelapin have been on a COVID rollercoaster since March: open, takeaway only, partially open, mostly outdoors, change the only constant. In the past month, Nina and her husband Larry Miller have even erected yurts outside Bywater for safe, cosy winter dining. There was also Hurricane Zeta, which hammered Louisiana in late October, cutting power to restaurants. Along the way, Nina has been active in the tumultuous struggle to gain financial relief for restaurants. We were privileged to spend a day with Nina Compton a few months ago to create an episode in our documentary series, Resetting the Table. In these videos, we meet groundbreaking chefs, observing how they remake tradition for challenging times. Nina introduces us to her New Orleans, gathering ingredients at a favourite city farm, preparing shrimp and Westholme striploin (also called New York strip) in her restaurant, then heading home to grill tomahawk with her husband. Throughout this tumultuous period, Nina has been cooking and creating, following the seasons and revelling in good produce. “These are daunting and uncertain times,” she says. “What is keeping us alive is feeding people. I still wake up everyday and feel proud to say I do what I love. That is my driving force.” Full recipe: www.westholme.com.au/nina-compton