HOW TO APPROACH A WAVE FOR FIRST TIME? APPLYING THE SOB LESSON #1 скачать в хорошем качестве

HOW TO APPROACH A WAVE FOR FIRST TIME? APPLYING THE SOB LESSON #1

Arriving at a new break in Indonesia, known for heavy waves and closeouts, demands strategy. It’s not just about taking the drop; it is about applying School of Barrels Lesson #1: exploring and understanding the terrain before taking unnecessary risks. Here is the step-by-step breakdown of this session: Wave 1: Reconnaissance & Controlled Ejection Upon realizing the wave was too fast and I lacked the speed for the barrel, I opted to eject. On your frontside, if there is enough space, it is possible to do a "mini-turn" and punch through the wave while keeping the board under your feet. If there isn't enough space to cut, the fins might slide out—in that case, safety is the priority. Wave 2: Testing Limits & The "Classic Wipeout" I tried a more aggressive line with a pump right from the start. As soon as I noticed the section would close out with no exit, I applied the course’s classic ejection technique: abandon the board and jump into the "comfort zone" (the whitewash), avoiding direct impact from the lip or contact with the reef. The goal is to return to the lineup in one piece. Wave 3: The Fine-Tune & Success Using the information gathered from the previous waves, I adjusted my positioning (not too deep, not too wide). I found the sweet spot on the shoulder, which resulted in a short but successfully completed barrel. Conclusion: The School of Barrels technique works as an exploration tool. It allows you to understand the wave, test your lines, and "survive" failed attempts with comfort, until you find the necessary confidence to fully commit and make the barrel.