Using green wood in woodturning: Part 1- Cutting the log in to blanks, rough turning, and drying скачать в хорошем качестве

Using green wood in woodturning: Part 1- Cutting the log in to blanks, rough turning, and drying

From logs to lumber, trees to tableware, if you're not using green wood you should be! This video shows my complete process for using fresh-cut or "green" wood in log form for woodturning my bowls. Turning green wood is one of the most fun things you can do on a lathe- the wood fibers are still wet and yield easily to your sharp tools. Plus, the material can often be had for free or just firewood prices, and you are salvaging a material that would otherwise go to the landfill or maybe the fire pit at best and giving the noble tree a second life as a cherished heirloom! In this detailed video, we will start with the initial breakdown of the log, cutting it in to manageable pieces with the chainsaw while paying attention to things like removing the pith (the very center of the tree), grain direction and layout and efficient use of the chainsaw. While I follow generally safe chainsaw practices, this video is not intended to be a chainsaw safety or operation tutorial, there is too much material to cover in this video already and if you are not familiar with the chainsaw, I recommend some of the excellent content on Stihl's YouTube channel, or, better yet, seeking out in-person instruction. We will continue breaking down the blank by cutting it in to a round on the bandsaw while continuing to pay attention to layout and grain direction considerations that will impact the final grain pattern in the bowl. Next, we'll discuss methods of mounting the bowl on the lathe, including between centers and faceplate mounting. I'll show you the various drive centers I would use for this task and explain the reasons why I recommend that beginners start their bowl on a face plate. The correct screws to use when mounting work on a faceplate will also be mentioned. Do not use common wood screws, they are not strong enough in the shearing direction. Use sheet metal screws or Spax screws. On the lathe, I will turn the bowl to a rough thickness of about 5/8" using the 1/2" (5/8" bar stock) Ellsworth grind bowl gouge. (This gouge profile or grind is also known as the Irish grind or side grind bowl gouge or sometimes people will say fingernail grind to mean the same thing. Some would argue there are slight differences in these grinds but I find the distinctions somewhat pedantic and relatively unimportant). Finally, with the bowl turned to a uniform wall thickness, I'll demonstrate a couple drying methods you can use to let the bowl dry slowly without cracking over a few months. There is the "paper bag and shavings" method that I have never been able to use successfully here in Colorado, but which I'm told works well in more humid parts of the country, and then there is my method of choice, coating the entire rough-turned bowl with Anchorseal or green wood end sealer. Next, we'll set the bowl aside to dry gently without cracking for several months and I'll see you later in part 2 of this series to demonstrate how I remount the dried bowl back on the lathe and turn it a second time down to final thickness. (I'll use some dried bowls I already have so that you don't actually have to wait months for part 2).