Ripmo V3 Disassembly скачать в хорошем качестве

Ripmo V3 Disassembly

Follow Nate as he walks you through the procedure for the Disassembly process when swapping out the clevis and shock to convert between a Ripmo V3 and Ripley V5, or if you need to complete a full bushing and bearing service. This procedure is identical for the Ripmo V3 and Ripley V5 the Ripley AF (V2) and the Ripmo AF (V2). The process is also very similar for the HD6, though the shock removal is slightly different. We have a link in the description below to the HD6 shock removal process. (ADD LINK) For more info and resources on the Ripmo V3 Carbon or the Ripley V5 Carbon or the AF V2 versions, visit the pages below: https://www.ibiscycles.com/bikes/ripmo https://www.ibiscycles.com/bikes/ripley https://www.ibiscycles.com/bikes/ripm... https://www.ibiscycles.com/bikes/ripl... Also... Did you know that you can make your Ripmo V3 into a mullet or reverse the process to put back to at full 29' er with this simple Flip Chip swap? That Flip Chip video can be found here:    • Ripmo V3 Flip Chip 29" to 27.5 (mixed whee...   If you have any questions, please feel free contact us via email: AskChuck@ibiscycles.com #IbisRipmo #Ripmo #IbisRipmoAF #IbisRipley #Ripley #IbisRipleyAF #IbisCycles The following materials are required to swap the Clevis: Snub Nose 5mm, 5mm, and 6mm Allen wrenches Dead Blow Hammer Old Linkage Bolt Clemens Tool (see link below) Clemens Press Handle (see link below) Torque Wrench capable of achieving 20nm 5mm Allen bit for Torque Wrench Grease Loc-tite 243 Anti-seize Slick Honey Follow the link to the Clemens tool on the Ibis site here: https://store.ibiscycles.com/collecti... You will follow this procedure if you would like to swap out the clevis and shock to convert between a Ripmo and Ripley, or if you need to complete a full bushing and bearing service. We’ll start by removing the rear wheel, then removing the crank. The crank removal process is specific to your drivetrain manufacturer. You will need to remove the cranks in order to remove the lower links. Next, we remove the shock. We start by placing a rag around the seat tube, to prevent the clevis from scratching the frame after we remove the shock. Then we remove the 2x 5mm bolts. Remove the flip chips using a 6mm allen on the outside, and an 8mm ball end on the backside. Repeat on both sides. There are two spacers that are captured between the rocker link and the frame, be careful as they may fall out. We have a full video on how to remove and reinstall the flip chips, which is linked in the description below. Using a 6mm allen, you may now remove the entire upper link and clevis assembly. At this point, if you would like to swap to a different clevis to change the rear shock travel, you can remove the clevis. You will need a 6mm allen and brute force. Please note, to change the shock travel, you will need a different shock. The upper and lower link bolts are different sizes, so carefully set them aside. One set mounts to the frame, the other set mounts to the clevis. Now onto the lower links. With a 5mm allen key, we’re going to loosen the cinch bolts. You do not need to remove these bolts. With a 4mm allen, we’ll remove the caps. Once the end caps are removed and the cinch bolts are loosened, we remove the lower links in their entirety. After you remove the links, pull off the top caps. There is one on each side of the frame. Now we can separate the swing arm from the main triangle. Proceed to remove the o-rings from the bushings. You should visually inspect the bushings, looking for any asymmetrical wear, discoloration, etc.. We are using an old bolt as a punch and a dead blow hammer to remove the bushing. If you are going to use a normal punch, be very careful to not damage the aluminum shaft. Repeat this process on the front and rear triangle. Ta da, your frame is now in pieces. Good luck. If you have any questions, please feel free contact us via email: AskChuck@ibiscycles.com