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“Buckin’ Broncos” is the happy byproduct of about two decades of memoir/personal essay writing that started over a lunch with my then-agent who asked about my surfing life. I elaborated, and at the end of my rant he said, “You know, you should really write a memoir, a surf-family memoir.” So I went home, rolled one of the spliffs that I smoked every evening at that time, and began writing what for many years I framed as my failed memoir, but now just think of as my daily self-examination/check-in/interrogation. Which is to say that the memoir in its completed form has yet to be published. But as the brilliant writer John Jeremiah Sullivan once wrote (I’m paraphrasing), ‘There’s no such thing as wasted writing.’ Or the artist Paul Chan, who I interviewed in 2015, told me, “I’m starting to see how success is its own form of failure.” Or as Bob Dylan sings in “Love Minus Zero”: She knows there’s no success like failure / And that failure’s no success at all. I sort of became my own therapist, writing scenes from imagined therapy sessions, in which I’d ask myself, “Just what the f—k are you trying to say here?” Loads of fun. It then blurred into fiction, and here you have “Buckin’ Broncos,” as well as about 100 other entries of this sort, which I plan to make into whimsical, idiosyncratic micro films. I was thrilled to work with Quinn Graham, who’s made some excellent films with Frankie Harrer and Taro Watanabe. And Charlie Smith of Cruise Control Contemporary, my dear pal and sometimes therapist. And Davis and Skylar Diamond, whose duo, Very Nice Person, soundtracks, and who ride 88 soft tops, usually finless, lots of sideways drifting. And so it’s friends, making, toying, experimenting. Hoping to do a lot more like this.