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I'm currently using a different device to record the videos, and there is an issue with microphone placement or automatic gain control causing audio pops. I'll be trying to address that issue or will switch back to the old device if I can resolve an issue with being unable to delete old video files on it. This video was spontaneously made while partaking of a cheap bottle of wine. So there may be slight randomness. The subject of the video is the design of a Philips LED street lighting panel. It is using a customisable array of up to 20 LEDs, each rated around 3V at 1A. I also show how to reprogram a Xitanium LED driver, which has an NFC coil for programming it from a suitable Android phone. It's worth mentioning that every brand of LED driver has its own system and Android app. Here's a link to the Signify app for Philips Xitanium drivers:- https://play.google.com/store/apps/de... Here's a link to the Tridonic driver app:- https://play.google.com/store/apps/de... And a link to the OSRAM driver app:- https://play.google.com/store/apps/de... A neat thing about the Xitanium app is that it can read the data out of a faulty driver if it has not been completely destroyed inside, and can then program a similar replacement driver with the same settings. Note that you can cause DAMAGE to LED panels by running them at a current higher than their rating. So make sure you use sensible settings, noting that running a panel at lower current is OK if a lower intensity is needed. The (Polish made) drivers are available in a range of power ratings, with different operating voltage ranges (about 3V per LED in series) and current ranges. They are also available potted and unpotted for different operating environments. They include a Dali network option for linking to street lighting control systems or sensors, and appear to have an auxiliary "lineswitch" input that seems to be rated for mains voltage. (It has a resistor chain to an optoisolator.) The LED panel is a universal design with the option during manufacturing to place either an LED or bypass link to adjust the power rating of the panel. The extremely precise lenses are projecting a similar area of light, so less LEDs will result in a lower power output, and allow use of a driver with a lower voltage range and power rating. Lowering the current to these panels should result in a longer lifespan for the LEDs and driver. If salvaging one of these panels for personal use, it is possible to bypass damaged LEDs with a link on the matching bypass resistor position. Note that the thick aluminium core panel will require preheating to solder anything on it. If you enjoy my videos, you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and gadgets, and keep it independent from the quirks of the YouTube algorithm by supporting me on Patreon. Which also lets me link to my content on other platforms if YouTube uses the ban-hammer (again!) I release content for critique and feedback on Patreon as soon as it has been made. / bigclive Alternatively, for a single contribution you can use PayPal:- https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators