[On-site repair] Komatsu 1.4t forklift hydraulic cylinder and brake repair скачать в хорошем качестве

[On-site repair] Komatsu 1.4t forklift hydraulic cylinder and brake repair

0:00 This time, I received a request for on-site repair of a forklift, and the contents were "oil leakage from hydraulic cylinder" and "brake does not work at all". Basically, you can't do "overhaul" of someone else's car, what we now call "specific maintenance", whether for a fee or free of charge, you need to properly notify the Transportation Bureau. This forklift does not have a license plate, so please take it lightly. Then let's go to the scene. 0:29 This is a 1.4t gasoline engine forklift manufactured by Komatsu Ltd. A general forklift consists of a "lift cylinder" and a "tilt cylinder". This machine has an additional cylinder that changes the angle of the fork. This is called a "hinged fork" and by attaching a bucket to the fork, it can be used like a tire shovel. 1:37 The left and right tilt cylinders are leaking oil, so I'm going to start overhauling the cylinders. First, lower the mast to some extent and set the load on the tilt cylinder to 0. Failure to do so may result in the mast moving when the cylinder is removed. Mark the length adjustment part of the rod so that it is in the original position. If the length here changes, the angle of the left and right masts will be misaligned. Leave the cylinder part in the main body and disassemble it on the rod side. You can separate it from the mast by removing the rotation stopper and turning the rod in the direction of shrinking. Since the tilt cylinder is fixed, loosen the cap with a pipe wrench. Remove the hydraulic hose so that the pressure inside the cylinder can be released easily. 21:40 You see, the reason why there are two cups is to send hydraulic pressure to the right and left front wheels. In the case of a car, the hydraulic pressure is sent separately to the rear wheels and the front wheels. I don't know why, but I wonder if the steering wheel is taken? 27:45 Slightly loosen the hub bearing from the point where it has entered all the way. Free the tapered roller bearing by hitting it with a hammer. Since the load applied to the bearing has disappeared, there is a little play. Tighten the nut from there until just before the load is applied to the bearing. If you tighten it too much, the load will be applied to the bearing and cause damage. If it is too loose, the center of the bearing will become unstable and cause damage. Intuitively speaking, it's an image of adjusting the bearing play while centering. Did you understand that the play is gone? The best condition is just before the load is applied to the bearing. The reason for hitting with a hammer is that if it is loose, there will be play due to impact, so hit it with a hammer every time you adjust it to check for play. Originally, it is certain to do "preload measurement" after this, but I will skip it this time.