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The heritage of California wine unfurls across its benchlands as an encyclopedic array of gnarly old vines. They tell the stories of pioneering immigrants – and, in turn, the stories of their homelands. They quietly stand, many in plain sight, speaking of terroir in a time before appellations. Few winemakers have been as adamant in the defense of these living time capsules – and as progressive in sharing their stories – as Tegan Passalacqua. A third generation son of Napa, but the first winemaker of his family, Tegan navigates the state’s diverse Zinfandel plantings as if they were in his childhood backyard (and some, more or less, are). He does so as the winemaker of Turley Wine Cellars, a title that falls short of fully describing the enormity of his endeavor. With an unwavering commitment to organic viticulture and the preservation of old vines – tenets of the Turley ethos since its founding in 1993 – Tegan oversees more than fifty vineyards in twelve counties, many of which are singularly celebrated in one of Turley’s some three dozen bottlings. Tegan’s preservationist hunger does not end with his workday. There is Kirschenmann, a vineyard he owns in Mokelumne River, Lodi, which was planted to ungrafted, head-trained Zinfandel in 1915. There is the Historic Vineyard Society, an organization committed to the preservation of historic vineyards through education, of which Tegan is a co-founder. And then there is Sandlands. A quiet project enwrapped in cultish fever, Sandlands is a rigorous and ongoing engagement with the head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted, old vines of California. It is a catalog of Tegan’s tireless study, a vehicle for his insatiable pursuit of a future for the past.