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The engine air-oil separator is an emissions device located on the top right rear corner of the engine. The separator is responsible for collecting residual gases and vapors contained inside the crankcase and funneling them back into the intake manifold where they can be burned in the combustion chamber. This reduces the overall emissions of the engine. When the separator fails, you will begin to see a large increase in the overall vacuum in the engine crankcase. In the most extreme cases, the air-oil separator fails to separate the oil from the air, and oil is then sucked into the intake manifold. Oil in the intake system is not healthy for the engine and it can foul spark plugs and destroy catalytic converters at the very least. The failure of the air-oil separator is often (but not always) accompanied by huge amounts of white smoke exiting the vehicle's exhaust and a generally poor running engine. You may experience a check engine light (CEL) as the oil being drawn into the intake can affect the mixture level. The oil cap may be very difficult to remove when the engine is running due to high vacuum levels. In addition, you may hear a high-pitched squeal from the engine when it's running: this is caused by air being sucked in past the crankcase seal due to the extreme vacuum inside the case. The proper method to test for the failure of the unit is to measure the engine crankcase vacuum with a slack tube manometer. Normal crankcase pressure, measured at the oil filler cap ranges from about 4-7 inches of water (drill a hole in the top of an old oil filler cap and attach the gauge there). When the air-oil separator fails, the intake manifold vacuum will draw into the crankcase and the levels will reach 9-12 inches or more. If you don't have a slack tub manometer (most of us don't), then you can use a standard vacuum gauge and/or get a rough feel for the level of vacuum pulled by comparing it to a normal running car. If you're still not sure, you can take a closer look at the hose that connects the air-oil separator to the intake manifold (yellow arrow, Figure 2). If the unit is failing, then there will be a significant amount of oil or residue in this tube. If the car is running rough, then removing this tube and blocking off both ends should disable the system and restore previous performance. This is not a long-term fix, but instead a short-term diagnosis step to use before you replace the air-oil separator. There is also a motorsports air-oil separator available that you can use on dedicated track cars (2003 and later). This special separator is designed to work with the higher g-forces that are exhibited with high speed track driving. If your engine has a lot of blue smoke exiting the tailpipe after driving on the track, you may need this upgrade. See the 101Projects.com website for a copy of the Porsche bulletin explaining this upgrade. Read the Full Article: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti... Project Time: 2 hrs Tab: $110 Parts Required: New air-oil separator Performance Gain: No more oil screen behind you Complementary Modification: Change the oil Shop 986 Boxster Parts & Accessories: https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/... Applicable Models: 1997 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible 2.5L H6 1998 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible 2.5L H6 1999 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible 2.5L H6 2000 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible 2.7L H6 2001 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible 2.7L H6 2002 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible 2.7L H6 2003 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible 2.7L H6 2004 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible 2.7L H6 2000 Porsche Boxster S Convertible 3.2L H6 2001 Porsche Boxster S Convertible 3.2L H6 2002 Porsche Boxster S Convertible 3.2L H6 2003 Porsche Boxster S Convertible 3.2L H6 2004 Porsche Boxster S Convertible 3.2L H6 2004 Porsche Boxster S Special Edition Convertible 3.2L H6