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Click for best 2013 Chevrolet Silverado Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2013_C... Products in this video: Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Click for more info and reviews of this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Search for other popular Chevrolet Silverado parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2013... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! / etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-best-2013... Today we're taking a look at the four best hitch options available for the 2013 Chevrolet Silverado. Here on the top we've got the CURT class three. This is part number 13322. Just below it, the CURT class four. This is part number 14301. Right below that, the CURT class five. This is part number C15323. Then here on the bottom we're going to have our Draw-Tite class three. This is part number 75362. Now you'll notice all of our hitches are going to offer a 2" by 2" receiver tube opening. Now you can see here with the CURT class three and with the Draw-Tite class three we're going to have the classic style of round tube. When we get into our little heavier duty hitches like our class four here and the class five, these have the square tube design. Now one big difference that I've noticed right off the bat, if we look at the class four you can see that the receiver tube opening is below that main crosstube of the hitch, whereas on the CURT three, the CURT five, and the Draw-Tite class three, they're all directly in line with it. What that means to me is that this crosstube is actually going to be tucked up behind the bumper out of sight. We'll just have our receiver tube opening that's going to hang down below. Aesthetically, that's probably going to be the cleanest looking hitch out of the four. The other ones, this one we'll see from about here down. The class five we'll see all the way across. That's the one we've got installed on our Silverado there now. The same with the Draw-Tite class three. We'll see this crosstube all the way across. Now the CURT class four, the CURT class five, and our Draw-Tite class three, they're going to use three existing holes in the frame rail. The one on the outermost here is going to be one of the bumper bracket bolts. We pull that out, put our hitch up, put that back in, and then just add in two bolts in the pre-drilled holes. For the CURT we're going to use that same bumper bracket mount, the hole just behind it, and then we've got two center connections here that we'll be adding in. Again, everything's pre-drilled. There won't be a big difference between installing this one and the other three. These really went in quick. There wasn't a lot of work to it. Everything's already existing there. You just put it in, bolt it up, and you're ready to hit the road. Now one thing the Draw-Tite's going to offer that I don't see on the CURT is going to be a small bracket that's been welded on. It's got three hole locations across there so it really helps us out if we've got a bracket to mount our wiring or something like that. Now it's not as big of a deal on the Silverado as maybe some other cars because typically they're going to have that factory seven-hole plug in there that we can use. If you're doing a four-pole or you're doing a custom wiring installation, that might come in handy. Now our hitches are all going to have one thing in common. That's going to be the 5/8 diameter pinhole. Now these are going to work out great for any of the 5/8 diameter accessories. You want to match your class of course, class three, class four, class five. Make sure it's rated for the kind of weights that you're dealing with. The one thing you'll see a little bit different on the Draw-Tite, it's going to have a double pinhole setup. The larger ones are a standard 5/8" pinhole. The one just in front of it is a smaller hole. That's for use with the j-pin stabilization system. It will come in and lock everything out and get it stabilized. Now as far as safety chain connection points go, the CURT up here is going to have one of the smaller opening holes. It's kind of plate style. I really don't think you'll have any issues getting safety chains connected to that. The CURT class four is going to have more of a rolled steel style. I prefer the look of the plate styles, but that's a cosmetic thing, not to really a mechanical thing. These are also really good for connecting safety chains. Now once we get into the class five CURT, it's an extra dut