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Here is the controller I designed for my 3D printed animatronic eye mechanisms. The main advantage it has over a traditional gaming controller is the ability to fine-tune a value (such as the openness of the eyelids) using a potentiometer, which holds its position. The controller plugs directly into an arduino and is pretty easy to build. Support me on Patreon for access to all my CAD files! / will_cogley My Setup/Recommendations: 🖨️ My Workhorse 3D Printer: https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=237790... 🖨️ Fancy Colour-Changing 3D Printer: https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235472... 🔧 Screwdrivers: https://amzn.to/3WFHXDp 🔌 Power Supply: https://amzn.to/3UYY6lP 🔥 Soldering Station: https://amzn.to/3wAYj5u All Projects: https://willcogley.notion.site/ Patreon: / will_cogley Discord Server: / discord Contact: [email protected] Also check the instructable for comprehensive detailed text instructions: https://www.instructables.com/id/One-... Supplies: Joystick - either use one of those cheap and nasty unbranded ones that come in arduino starter kits (https://amzn.to/2rL5WVl: check images to see if you might already have one) or use a Parallax Inc 2-Axis Joystick Module if you want a better response: https://www.parallax.com/product/27800 Push-to-make switch - the controller is designed to use one of these https://amzn.to/33M5zXI but you could probably make any small cylindrical switch fit. 10k Potentiometer - designed to use these https://amzn.to/35Yy6ed but again, a similar sized one is likely to fit with some adjustments. Screws: A small kit like this should do if you don't already have these lying about: https://amzn.to/2OJQt0M 4* M3 x 4/5/6mm screws (only if using cheap joystick) 4* M2 x 4/6/8mm screws (only if using parallax joystick) 4* M3 x 8/10/12mm screws 6+ core wire with an outer diameter of around 4.5mm/5AWG: https://amzn.to/34K7HAv - although realistically you can use whatever cable you want! (optional) A cable grommet for a 6.5mm hole and 4.5mm wire: https://amzn.to/2OIU7HZ