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Cutting Board P2

Episode 2: 3D Cutting Board – Part 2 This was a problematic episode. My microphone went out on me and I had to get an old one that was having issues and limp through the last of these episodes (more about that a bit later). Additionally, I had purchased a wood branding Iron that did not come in on time and that is a shame as I wanted the bride and groom to have this as a memory item. Non of this shows up in the episode but it has pushed the finish back to a day prior to us departing for the wedding. I typically write this after the episode is in the can but… not this time. The Compression Jig: I spend a lot of time on this and that is because it is such a good Idea. Unfortunately, I cannot find article that I saw it on. This is not my idea but I have adopted it. What I have done is put this jig on a Torsion Box. The original was on a sheet of plywood. This under high pressure the piece could warp if the line of force was not centered on the screws. In other words, the cutting board thickness could only be twice the thickness of the distance between the screws and the base of the jig. Think on that, because I cannot get an illustration here. The torsion box will pull the resulting moment force out and I can use any thickness in the jig (theoretically). What I like about this jig is the uniform force that it applies in both directions and it is tremendous force. My compression screws are an inch apart. I cannot get clamps that close and I cannot get this much force out of them. Additionally, I know the board will be square. Finally, I am not limited to a size. If I can get it in the jig, I can make it. My thought process is that I will be making a lot of these on the side. I wanted to make these boards from a puck that had the repeating pattern self-contained. I have made cutting boards from strips and have had issues with getting a uniform glue up on them. I made our kitchen Island from end-grain cherry and it did not come out square. The solution was simple (put a gentle contour on the sides) and the you don’t see the sloping seams. It worked, you really could not see them… and the effect was magnificent, I got lots of complements on that piece. Needless to say, I wanted to get away from clamps and I wanted it square. This jig is great at both. The Formica did not work. The packing tape did work. The hole to push off the cutting board worked great. Leveling: If you have drum sander, that is the tool. Using a router might seem like the right idea, and I have done that, but you can kiss a ¼” good-bye, if you don’t have tear out. I don’t think I lost nearly that much and no tear out. It was also quicker. I installed new paper, sanded them down on the drum sander faster than I could have set up the router and sled. Sanding and Repair: A simple random orbital sander – but go through the grits. I should have started at 80 as the drum had 100. It would have saved some time – oh-well. Stop at 220 and then do your repairs. Collect the sanding dust and make that glue dust mix and press it into the cracks. It really does work. Go back to 220 and take it to 400. Wait a day and got back to 400. What you will find is that the wood will shrink slightly. You cannot see it but you will feel all the glue joints. Sand those down prior to finish. Hand hold: This is a simple slot made from the shaper origin. The shaper plate and origin continue to impress. This was soooooo simple and no jig needed. Finish: Three coats of butcher block oil – 4 hours apart. Two coats of butcher block cream, 4 hours apart. Your done. Things of interest in this episode: • Compression jig to assemble the Pucks • Torsion Box • Assembly sequence • Plastic Cutting Board for Non-Stick Surface Tools Used • Jointer • Table Saw • Compound Miter Saw • Drum Sander • Shaper Origin

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