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This is a variable reluctant crank sensor, it makes it's own voltage 0.05vac and back to 0v everytime a tooth passes in front of the electromagnet if measured with a volt meter when working properly. Mine was jumping around, sometimes I'd get 0.027 and sometimes I would get 0.036 when I would turn the crankshaft with a socket and breaker bar. I replaced the crank sensor. While tested I noticed the drain wire, which is the bare wire inside the foil jacket that surrounds the two sensor wires was touching the engine block and frame. The purpose of the drain is to remove emi and static. It grounds itself on one side only with a terminal that terminates at the computer on this van, drain wires should never be grounded on both sides or they can create emi instead of removing it like they are built to do. So I repaired the shield in this video as well. So as I get a free moment I'm going to make another video showing how to test the crank sensor and what to look for. The new crank sensor fixed my problem of having at misfire at idle, when I would raise the rpm between 1700-1900 rpm I had cylinder 3, 5, and 6 misfires. The crankshaft position sensor wasn't sending out the correct voltage and this caused the PCM to incorrectly advance and retard timing, I also had a intermittent misfire that would show up if a quickly released the throttle around 55-65 sometimes. I hope this video helps you too. Thanks for watching. Like and subscribe I am in no way liable for any damages, injury's, third party damage or injury, or death. This video is for educational purposes only. This video is my property and is not to be reproduced without my permission