Replaced a broken Harbor Freight Miter Saw switch, Please read description, always test continuity скачать в хорошем качестве

Replaced a broken Harbor Freight Miter Saw switch, Please read description, always test continuity

BE AWARE AMAZON MIGHT PROVIDE A DIFFERENT SWITCH THAN i REFERENCE IN THIS VIDEO AND DESCRIPTION! The link to the one I bought is provided below. BE AWARE AMAZON MIGHT PROVIDE A DIFFERENT SWITCH THAN i REFERENCE IN THIS VIDEO! Several people have commented, When they used my link to buy their replacement switch, they said the brake was on the right and power on the left and not as I showed in my video, Read the next paragraph on how to determine where the brake should be connected and where power and common wires should be connected. Again several comments I received, indicate the switch they bought had the Brake on the right and Power on Left just like their original switch. The one I bought using the provide link, had Brake on left. Power on the right. THEREFORE, I recommend testing any switch you buy with a multimeter. If your replacement switch has continuity on the left without the trigger pulled, then that should be where the brake wires connect. That continuity test, in my case on the left, should open or create no continuity when trigger is pulled, therefore stopping current from going to the brake. On my replacement switch I had No continuity on the right when trigger is NOT PULLED, the continuity would occur, on the right, when I pulled the trigger, so that was where the power wiring connect. I hope this helps to determine where to connect the brake wires and where to put the power wires on a replacement switch. Here is the Amazon link to the SW38C switch I bought for $12.69 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... BE SURE TO TEST FOR CONTINUITY BEFORE CONNECTING THE WIRING, BECAUSE AMAZON DOESN'T SEEM TO PROVIDE THE EXACT SAME SWITCH I BOUGHT TO FIX MY SAW. Based on the comments I have received, Sometimes they do and sometimes they don't, so test continuity to see which switch you recieved. I did have to use a Dremel cutoff wheel to remove a partition inside the Model 98199 Miter Saw handle so the new switch would fit better. Also used the Dremel cut off wheel to remove a very small portion of the handle sidewall where the partition had been. The whole project took less than half an hour to complete I just rerouted the wires, so the Black power wire and White common wire, were going to the right side of the SW38C switch and the two smaller White Brake wires were going to the left side of the switch. I did not have to cut or length the wires. I did remove the pigtail connectors from the SW38C switch and just screwed down the miter saw original wire connectors to the SW38C switch. Hope this video helps someone that has a miter saw switch problem. PLEASE DO A CONTINUITY TEST SO YOU KNOW HOW TO WIRE THE REPLACEMENT SWITCH.